I think I got off on the wrong foot with little Luxembourg.
My journey by train from Amsterdam was met with sudden route changes, extending my transit time from the better part of a morning to a full seven hours – which meant I was filled with a bit of regret before Michael and I even arrived. And though in many parts of Europe, a car would be considered a burden, we soon found that we also regretted not renting one in Luxembourg City, as we found ourselves somewhat confined within the city walls.
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Luxembourg City itself, however, deserves some background appreciation: perched high on rocky cliffs, it’s a city with a fascinating history that traces back over a thousand years. Founded in 963 AD, it began as a fortified stronghold, its strategic position making it one of Europe’s most formidable fortresses. Over the centuries, Luxembourg became known as the “Gibraltar of the North” as various European powers fought for control, adding layer upon layer to the city’s fortifications. Today, these historic defenses are UNESCO World Heritage sites, giving the city a timeless, storybook charm and a layout that’s as complex as its history.
Though our arrival didn’t go as smoothly as hoped, we were still determined to make the most of our visit. After returning home and taking some time to reflect, here are my firsthand recommendations for 36 hours spent exploring Luxembourg City:
LUXEMBOURG CITY FOOD & DRINK
Chiche!
Chiche! was my saving grace on our first night in Luxembourg City. It was open a little later than some of the other restaurants and – most importantly – it’s open on Sunday. Chiche! offers a vast selection of Middle-Eastern dishes, some familiar to us and others not.
It’s best to order a few hot and cold dishes to share; you just may find a new favorite!
→Chiche! // 20 Av. Pasteur, 2310 Luxembourg
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Chiggeri
We always try to have lunch at spendier restaurants rather than dinner, because the earlier meal tends to be a better value. Chiggeri (now closed) provides a wonderful prix-fixe lunch menu with a single meat entree that changes daily (a fish and vegetarian entree are offered as well, though they remain on the menu over the course of the full week), with the option to add a starter and/or dessert. The portions were generous, and there are several Luxembourgish wines on the menu if you wish to liven up your lunch a bit.
→Chiggeri // Now Closed
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Ready?!
No, I’m not asking you a question. Ready?! is the name of a Luxembourg City coffee shop and it was very busy at the time of our visit, as the school day had just ended. We watched in awe as the shop suddenly flooded with teenagers looking for a sugary beverage or a pastry. We kept to our usual – a flat white and a pour-over – and were not disappointed. A perfect place to stop for a quick snack, and they also offer a light lunch as well.
→Ready?! // 35 Av. du Bois, 1251 Limpertsberg Luxembourg
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Mu Luxembourg
A hotel bar is a somewhat rare recommendation on this blog if I’m not staying at that particular property, but here’s one: Mu Luxembourg. Located at the top of the Sofitel Luxembourg Le Grand Ducal hotel, it offers a sweeping view of the city. For the cost of a beer (about €6 each), you can pull two chairs up to the window and watch the lights twinkle below.
→Mu Luxembourg // 40 Bd d'Avranches, 1160 Luxembourg
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Bloom Specialty Coffee Shop
Bloom Specialty Coffee Shop doesn’t offer a wide menu – but that’s precisely what makes them so good. They offer a limited selection of items for breakfast, and everything we had was exceptional. We shared two breakfasts of juice, toast and homemade jam, and pain au chocolat, along with coffee. A breakfast out is a treat for us, and Bloom made the first meal of the day feel extra special.
→Bloom Specialty Coffee Shop // 101 Rue Adolphe Fischer, 1521 Luxembourg
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Knopes Cafe
A “yeps” in our book (sorry, I had to), Knopes Cafe carefully sources their beans and provides a comfortable place to relax and enjoy. We were perfectly cozy on the cold day of our visit, and lots of people were settled in with their laptops to begin their work for the day.
→Knopes Cafe // 18 Rue Dicks, 1417 Luxembourg
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:buvette
:buvette didn’t necessarily have great reviews online, but to be honest, I don’t really understand why. Yes, it was very quiet on the Monday evening we visited, but the space is quite comfortable and it fills a gap in available places to go out and grab a drink at the start of the week.
Luxembourg has very little to offer in terms of nightlife; if :buvette were near our home, we could definitely see spending evenings with friends there, playing ping pong or some of their lawn games over a local brew.
→:buvette // Place des Rotondes, 2448 Luxembourg
LUXEMBOURG CITY SIGHTS & ATTRACTIONS
Casemates du Bock
On a whim, we purchased entries to the Casemates du Bock. The Casemates are tunnels located underneath the city’s buildings – essential during war but unnecessary in these peaceful times. During the 1800s, the city discovered they were impossible to remove without damaging the infrastructure – and so they remain for tourists to explore. The tunnels offer a more unique view of the city than above, and you can explore as much or as little as you’d like.
→Casemates du Bock // 10 Mnt de Clausen, 1343 Luxembourg
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Pont Adolphe
The Pont Adolphe spans the Pétrusse – and offers great views looking at it and also looking away from it. My recommendation? Cross via the pedestrian footpaths underneath on both sides (just watch out for bikes!), and head further afield to get a good view of the full bridge.
→Pont Adolphe // Uewerstad, 2320 Luxembourg
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Wandering on Foot
Being without a car and not wanting to deal with wonky public transit, we skipped a bus ride over to the Moselle region in favor of simply wandering – and I don’t regret it at all (well, not too much, at least!). Luxembourg City is made for wandering; paths crisscross and wind up and down the hillsides and it’s easier to put away the map on your phone and just let your feet pull you through. You never know what you may stumble upon!
LUXEMBOURG CITY SHOPPING
Akabo Buttek
Akabo was a really lovely surprise – an ethical fashion beacon amongst a sea of fast-fashion consumer culture in the surrounding shops. Selling only fair and sustainable fashion, Akabo carries brands such as Recolution, Veja, People Tree, and Kuyichi.
→Akabo Buttek // 8 Rue de Bonnevoie, 1260 Luxembourg
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Bagatelle Concept Store
Bagatelle (now closed) is a concept store located in the back of Knopes Cafe and offers a selection of women’s and men’s clothing, as well as accessories and vinyl records. There is truly something for everyone, at all price points.
→Bagatelle Concept Store // Now Closed
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Jeff de Bruges
We hadn’t yet made it to Belgium yet at this point in our trip, but that didn’t mean we weren’t craving chocolate! A stop at Jeff de Bruges is a perfect way to satiate that craving. Pick up a piece or two for an afternoon treat, or buy one of their many boxed options for a gift for a lucky loved one.
→Jeff de Bruges // Multiple Locations
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Monoprix
We always pop into a Monoprix at some point during a visit to France, and we were pleasantly surprised to find that the French chain store has locations in Luxembourg. Generally, I advocate for shopping at local markets and vendors whenever possible; however, Monoprix does offer the advantage of consistency and a large assortment of products.
The Monoprix in Luxembourg City sold several bottles of local wines as well as Champagne at a very cheap price (we later learned that it’s not uncommon for people to pop over to Luxembourg to buy their alcohol, as it can be much cheaper).
→Monoprix // Multiple Locations
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: TIPS FOR VISITING LUXEMBOURG CITY
Direct trains to Luxembourg City arrive from a select few origin cities; if I had to do it over, I would have booked a flight or rented a car instead. Speaking of cars, automobiles are king in the city, and I highly recommend renting one if you plan to visit for more than a day or two even though parking may be a bit of a challenge. Luxembourg City itself can be explored in a day, and from there, I would suggest heading to the Moselle to rent a bike and visit wineries or heading north of the city in a vehicle to explore the country’s castles.
Lodging can be found almost anywhere in the city; our Airbnb’s proximity to the main train station was helpful for an easy arrival and departure. The language we encountered most frequently was French, but many people also spoke English.
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Luxembourg City has little to offer in the way of nightlife, and much of the city felt quiet after 8 p.m. We did feel a bit unsafe in certain parts of the city (mostly near the train station) and we encountered many people just standing in the street late at night, potentially up to no good. This was a vast change from Amsterdam, one of the safest-feeling cities we’ve ever visited. As always whether you’re traveling or exploring back home, keep your city smarts about you.
OUTFIT DETAILS
Cozy was the name of the game during this trip to Luxembourg. The temperature dropped fast after we arrived – we went from highs in the seventies down to lows in the thirties – and this woolen sweater kept me warmer than my leather jacket. I always, always prefer natural fibers over synthetics, and the nubby raw silk of the T-top and these stretchy-yet-substantial jeans really pulled their weight. This is a look I’ll likely be repeating on future trips!
*this item is no longer available, and I've linked a similar product
FINAL THOUGHTS ON VISITING LUXEMBOURG CITY
Luxembourg is teeny tiny on the map, but once you’ve arrived, it can feel quite large and desolate at times. As I alluded to several times in this post, I felt a little let down by Luxembourg City. Don’t get me wrong, this fortress city is beautiful and it has a rich and fascinating history, but for the modern-day visitor, I never quite found its contemporary cultural heart.
Would I return? I hope so! I’d love the chance to explore beyond the city – maybe this tiny nation’s soul is out in the forest beyond.
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Questions for you
Have you ever visited Luxembourg? Do you have any favorite spots to add to this list?
Have you ever felt disappointed in a destination?
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