36 Hours in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

Sharing my itinerary for a quick second visit to Philly - the perfect chance to dive deeper into this great American city.

Second visits to a destination are always a treat.

You can land in a place with a weight off your shoulders because you probably have already done most of the must-dos, which leaves you more time to do more of the want-to-dos.

And in Philadelphia, after you’ve seen the Liberty Bell, toured Independence Hall, and sprinted up the Rocky Steps, you’re free to get out on the tree-lined sidewalks to take in the vibrant, modern energy of the city.

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A portion of this trip was generously hosted, but as always, all opinions are my own. This post contains commissionable links in lieu of advertisements.

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Michael and I recently snapped up a $75 fare to spend 36 hours in Philly, a city we visited pre-blog, and one where we’ve more or less crossed the standard attractions off our list. In doing so, I couldn’t help but assemble this second-timer getaway guide to the city. Visiting Philly for the first time? I’m going to be honest, this may not be the guide for you (unless you prefer a more off-the-beaten-path approach!). But for my second-timer friends, read on…

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ABOUT PHILADELPHIA

Does this city really even need an introduction? Although it’s no longer the country’s capital, Philadelphia will always remain historically significant as the nation’s birthplace.

Philadelphia played a pivotal role in the American Revolution, serving as the meeting place for the Continental Congress and witnessing the drafting and signing of the Declaration of Independence in 1776. For travelers, the city is most frequently visited through the lenses of history and culture, walking along cobblestone streets to explore sights like the Liberty Bell, Independence Hall, Reading Terminal Market, The Franklin Institute, the Philadelphia Museum of Art, and so much more.

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Five things you may not know about Philadelphia

1. Philadelphia is home to the first U.S. Mint, established thanks to the Coinage Act passed by Congress on April 2, 1792.
2. Yet another first, the Philadelphia Zoo opened in 1874, becoming the first zoo in the U.S.
3. The nation’s largest public art program can be found in Philadelphia – Mural Arts Philadelphia engages the community in 50-100 public art projects each year.
4. Popular convenience store chain Wawa got its start in the Philly metro area (we have them to thank for decent pit stops along the Eastern seaboard!).
5. A New Year’s Day tradition, the Mummers Parade is a sight to see as over 10,000 Philadelphians strut down Broad Street in elaborate costumes.

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Beyond its historical significance, Philadelphia is renowned for its vibrant culinary scene and neighborhoods full of character – this guide primarily explores the Center City and Fishtown neighborhoods, but also dips its toes down in South Philadelphia, too.

Ready to explore more of the City of Brotherly Love over just two days? Let’s go!:

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THINGS TO DO IN PHILADELPHIA

The Mütter Museum at The College of Physicians of Philadelphia

The perfect museum for a second visit to Philadelphia, The Mütter Museum at The College of Physicians of Philadelphia is a remarkable collection of medical history and preserved specimens. Organized similarly to a cabinet of curiosities, the cases display historic medical instruments and fascinating examples of human life. I admit this is not the best museum for the particularly squeamish (there are a lot of brains in jars, for example – which my own brain was not particularly enticed to view for a long period of time), but for everyone else, it’s sure to spark conversations that last long after you return home. Be sure to book your timed tickets in advance; otherwise, you’ll have to wait until the next opening to enter.

→The Mütter Museum at The College of Physicians of Philadelphia // 19 S 22nd St, Philadelphia, PA 19103

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Headhouse Farmers’ Market

Unless it’s a daily market, I rarely see farmers’ markets offered on Sundays (they’re often one of my first stops in a new city on Saturday mornings) – but Society Hill’s Headhouse Farmers’ Market runs every Sunday from 10 a.m. – 2 p.m. As expected, offerings rotate seasonally; our autumn visit saw plenty of apples, baked goods, and Thanksgiving favorites.

→Headhouse Farmers’ Market // 2nd &, Lombard St, Philadelphia, PA 19147

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Philadelphia Shops + Boutiques

I’m not sure people understand how cool Philadelphia is – and how cool Philadelphians are. There are so many great shops and boutiques in the city worth seeking out, especially if you’re into handmade or vintage goods. Those looking to spend will find a range of vintage brands at Wayward Collection (with a name like that I had to visit!) and a robust catalog of vintage designer wear at Moore Vintage Archive. On a budget? Jinxed Fishtown and Philly AIDS Thrift are excellent bets for secondhand clothing and housewares.

If you prefer to be the first owner of an item, Moon + Arrow and YOWIE serve up fun, curated finds (the former, soothing and minimalist, and the latter a bit bolder).

And if you just need a fun souvenir, The Clay Studio is a gallery with a storefront full of ceramics made by local artists. New mug, anyone?

→The Clay Studio // 1425 N American St, Philadelphia, PA 19122
→Jinxed Fishtown // 1331 Frankford Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19125
→Moon + Arrow // 742 S 4th St, Philadelphia, PA 19147
→Moore Vintage Archive // 725 S 4th St, Philadelphia, PA 19147
→Philly AIDS Thrift // 710 S 5th St, Philadelphia, PA 19147
→Wayward Collection // 707 S 4th St, Philadelphia, PA 19147
→YOWIE // 226 South St, Philadelphia, PA 19147

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TOP FOOD + DRINK IN PHILLY

Laser Wolf

A seat at Zahav has been one of Philadelphia’s top reservations for fifteen years, but if you can’t snag a table or are looking to save a little, Laser Wolf is there for you (albeit with reservations that book up quickly as well). Known in Hebrew as a “shipudiya”, this Fishtown skewer house relies on the high heat of a charcoal grill to prepare its entrees, resulting in intense, hearty flavors. There are mercifully few decisions to be made while ordering – pick your entree from the list of meat, fish, and veggie dishes, and then settle in for a delicious meal.

The first item to arrive to the table is the Salatim – a sharable platter of *inhales dramatically* babaganoush, Turkish celery root, braised fennel with orange, butternut squash chershi, Israeli pickles with shipka peppers, Napa cabbage with pickled raisins and amba, cranberry beans with spicy matbucha, broccoli with chickpeas and harissa, sweet potato muhammara, and smoked beets surrounding the most ethereal hummus I’ve ever eaten.

To be honest, I was so happy to tuck into all of this pickledy, veggie goodness, that I had forgotten that we’d ordered entrees. But my shawarma-spiced cauliflower and Michael’s lamb merguez were eventually placed on the table, each wonderfully spiced and blistering from the heat of the grill. Guts bursting, we nearly declined dessert, but for the sake of this post (you’re welcome!) we ordered both options (key lime sorbet and brown sugar soft serve at the time). Both were utterly delicious, though we were in full disagreement about which reigned supreme. I suppose you’ll just have to be the judge.

→Laser Wolf // 1301 N Howard St, Philadelphia, PA 19122

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Pizzeria Beddia

When I visited Philadelphia back in 2015, Pizzeria Beddia was at the top of my list of places to eat – but I never made it there. At the time, the pizza shop was serving only forty pies a day, and all to-go. In the end, I decided it wasn’t worth the risk to spend my precious vacation time in line, waiting for a pizza I might not even get.

So naturally, I had no choice but to add the now full-service restaurant to my itinerary – and frankly, neither do you. Once you find the door with the neon peace sign overhead (the fingers ✌️, not the circular symbol ☮️), you’ll find a space flooded with light and the heavenly scent of baking dough. The menu is small but best approached with a few friends, since sharing is caring, and this way you’ll get to try more pies. Michael and I managed to tackle our entire delicious pizza arrabbiata, but I would have liked the opportunity to sample some of the other options, too. Next time!

→Pizzeria Beddia // 1313 N Lee St, Philadelphia, PA 19125

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The Breakfast Den

The Breakfast Den offers a heaping serving of comfort on a cold Philly morning. With a menu of American-Vietnamese breakfast mashups, it’s a welcome change from the standard brunch staples (though those are here, too). Expect a breakfast version of a classic bánh mì, rice porridge, and summer rolls mixed in among pancakes and bacon. Arrive early if you can help it – it’s a popular spot with a pint-sized dining room.

→The Breakfast Den // 1500 South St, Philadelphia, PA 19146

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Woodrow’s Sandwich Shop

You didn’t think I’d fly all the way to Philadelphia and not order a cheesesteak, did you? I confess that a meaty, cheesy sandwich isn’t totally my jam, but it is Michael’s jam and so we set about acquiring one before hopping in an Uber to the airport. I suspect this sandwich would have been at peak deliciousness in the restaurant, but even at the gate an hour after purchasing it, the version from Woodrow’s Sandwich Shop is a contender for one of the best Philly cheesesteaks I’ve ever had. Shaved ribeye and homemade (!) truffle wiz sit deep in a flavorful roll coated with a bright cherry pepper mayo – the perfect combination.

→Woodrow's Sandwich Shop // 630 South St, Philadelphia, PA 19147

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Philadelphia Bakeries

Nearly every weekend guide on this site includes a stop at a bakery because sadly great ones are few and far between here in my home city of Charlotte. This visit led us to three great places: High Street Bakery, an offshoot of the popular restaurant; Knead Bagels, a fun bagel shop with innovative offerings (potato chip bagel, anyone?); and Lost Bread Co., which mills its flour fresh for loaves and pastries. Should you find yourself in need of a sweet or savory snack, I fully endorse a stop at one (or all!) of these charming spots.

→High Street Bakery // 101 S 9th St Door 1, Philadelphia, PA 19107
→Knead Bagels // 725 Walnut St, Philadelphia, PA 19106
→Lost Bread Co. // 1313 N Howard St, Philadelphia, PA 19122

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Philadelphia Coffee Shops

It seems that coffee is around every corner in Philly (it is the birthplace of La Colombe after all). As ever, my preference is to seek out small local spots whenever possible. This time I enjoyed more cups of coffee than my heart should probably have been forced to endure, and wrote about my four favorites here on the blog.

→Habitat Coffee House // 1101 Spruce St, Philadelphia, PA 19107
→Jiggy Coffee // 1000 Pine St, Philadelphia, PA 19107
→Persimmon Coffee // 11 W Girard Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19123
→Thank You Thank You // 700 Sansom St, Philadelphia, PA 19106

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Philadelphia Bars

A 36-hour visit to a city doesn’t leave time for bar-hopping, but if you have it in your heart and liver, two fun ones that are absolutely worth a visit are Middle Child Clubhouse and Next of Kin. Though completely different in atmosphere (fun hangout spot with great games and food at Middle Child; excellent cocktails at a swanky modern bar at Next of Kin), both Fishtown bars are contenders in the “best bathroom” category in the contest I just made up (not what you expected? Me neither – but see examples above and on my Instagram). We lucked into a spot at each upon arrival, but don’t be surprised if you find a wait.

→Middle Child Clubhouse // 1232 N Front St, Philadelphia, PA 19122
→Next of Kin // 1414 Frankford Ave, Philadelphia, PA 19125

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WHERE TO STAY IN PHILADELPHIA

Morris House Hotel

As much as I love a modern boutique hotel experience, the truth is, I am primarily interested in staying at hotels that feel truly embedded in their city. Once the Morris family home, today the stately Morris House Hotel is now a historic boutique hotel offering all the comforts of home in a prime location. During my autumn stay, fires were lit throughout the main house, beckoning our fellow travelers to pull a book from one of the bookshelves and curl up with a cup of tea and a cookie (complimentary in the afternoons!).

Rooms are either located in the main house or the adjacent garden building above the restaurant (this is where we stayed on this trip). Up in the room, we found a cozy space with a comfortable bed, desk, closet, and minifridge that opened to a spacious marble bath. I regret not having time to soak the day away in the jacuzzi tub, but eagerly made use of the plush robes provided.

The following morning, we perused the continental breakfast offerings, grateful to have fresh fruit and cheese before checking out (bagels, hard-boiled eggs, yogurt, and of course, coffee are available too). Helpfully, the hotel is happy to hold onto guests’ luggage before and after their stay, making this quick journey seamless. If you’re looking for a comfortable hotel with an equally comfortable price in the heart of Philadelphia, I highly recommend a stay at Morris House Hotel.

→Morris House Hotel // 225 S 8th St, Philadelphia, PA 19106

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WITH MORE TIME IN PHILLY

Fair warning – this “with more time” section is heavily skewed toward the food and drink side of things. Why? Because Philly is one of the country’s most underrated food cities – and that’s worth the price of a plane ticket alone. Here are some of the places on my list for next time:

Restaurants | Angelo’s Pizzeria for my next cheesesteak, Friday Saturday Sunday for a splurge, Kalaya for a mind-blowing meal, and South Philly Barbacoa for a full, happy belly.

Bakeries + Treats | I’m eyeing Heung Fa Chun Sweet House for early morning buns and dumplings, The Kettle Black for big flavors from a small bakeshop, John’s Water Ice for the obvious, and Machine Shop for more buttery, flaky goodness.

Coffee | Menagerie Coffee, Elixr, and Function Coffee Labs are all on my list to keep me caffeinated for my next visit.

Bars | Bok Bar for its popular seasonal rooftop, The Ranstead Room for a classic speakeasy experience, Martha for the neighborhood vibes, and Tattoo Mom for fun hangs.

Miscellaneous | The South 9th Street Italian Market for stocking my home pantry, Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens for an afternoon of awe, and The Rail Park for supporting adaptive reuse.

Shopping | Because I love a good yarn shop, Wild Hand, Yarnphoria, Weaver House, and Loop are all on my list.

As ever, if you happen to visit any of these places before I do, please leave a comment and let us know what you think!

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TRAVEL TIPS FOR PHILADELPHIA

Welcome to Philly! If you’re visiting from far away, your first stop will likely be at Philadelphia International Airport (PHL) or the Philadelphia Amtrak Station. If it’s the latter, lucky you! You’re already in the city center. But if you arrived at the airport, well, you’re not quite there yet. Rideshare services like Uber or Lyft are the quickest and easiest way to navigate to your destination, though if surge pricing is in effect, you may consider a traditional taxi as they are subject to a flat rate (our rides hovered around the $33 mark both ways). Looking to save? You’ll pay in time if you choose public transit, but an individual fare costs just $6.75 when paying via SEPTA Key card.

No matter how you landed in the city, I caution against renting a car. Public transit is widely available (SEPTA is the country’s sixth largest transit system!), and the initial $4.95 price of a SEPTA Key Card will be added to your Travel Wallet once you register it online. With a balance loaded onto your card, you can then decide to pay for rides as you go or purchase a day pass. I should note that the Philadelphia Marathon impacted our ability to ride the bus, and we wound up walking in several instances where we might have used one – subway use, however, was not interrupted.

Is it boring to talk about the weather? Summers in Philadelphia are generally hot and muggy, fall and spring are typically milder, and winters are moderately cold with snowfall that fluctuates annually. Philadelphia’s climate is moderately sunny, and no particular month is rainier than another. If I had to choose when to visit, I’d gladly take the crisp autumn weekend from this trip (highs in the 50s, lows in the 30s) than my last sweltering trip which fell in July.

Philadelphia is truly a city of neighborhoods, each acting like its own micro-city. If you’re so inclined, you could easily pick a neighborhood to explore and stay put the whole time (I think this is what I’ll likely do next time, setting a boundary around Fishtown or South Philly so I can spend less time in transit and more time exploring the neighborhood). While each one has a decidedly different vibe, one thing remains constant throughout, and that’s a sense of community.

But what about safety? (Mom, is that you?). Yes, Philadelphia cracked the top 15 most dangerous cities in the U.S. – along with many other cities I’ve visited safely and written about here on the blog: St. Louis, Birmingham, Cleveland, Memphis, Detroit, New Orleans, Milwaukee, Kansas City, and Richmond. For obvious reasons, I can’t guarantee your safety in Philadelphia just like I can’t guarantee your safety at home – but I can share that I didn’t experience any situations where I felt unsafe in Philly (I should note that I did encounter experiences that made me uncomfortable, like unaided mental health crises and the open use of hard drugs). It’s always best to practice your city smarts, and travel with a buddy if you can. My takeaway: if you don’t go looking for trouble, you’re very unlikely to find it.

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FINAL THOUGHTS ON SPENDING 36 HOURS IN PHILLY

A walkable destination with great food is always my favorite, and I regret that it’s taken me this long to revisit this great American city. I know many will argue that 36 hours is not nearly enough time to visit Philadelphia, and yes, I see their point. But I’ll always prefer to take multiple short trips to a city to keep my finger on the pulse than a one-and-done longer trip, so don’t be surprised if you find another Philly guide in the near-ish future. With great flight prices and perfect flying times, it’s a no-brainer.

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Questions for you

Before reading this post, have you ever considered flying somewhere just for the weekend? Why or why not?

And the ultimate question: what type of cheese do you prefer on your cheesesteak?

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A huge thank you to the team at Visit Philly for hosting our visit to The Mütter Museum!