The Ultimate Guide to Exploring Ghent: Belgium’s Hidden Gem

Sharing your weekend travel guide for Ghent, Belgium.

“Where should I stay in Belgium?”

Michael and I were torn between staying in Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp, and after doing some research, conducting a poll in Instagram stories, and chatting with Olivia from Alice + Whittles (now Thesus – thank you again!), we settled on Ghent – and I’m so happy we did. Yes, Bruges has its fairytale beauty, and Antwerp has its edgy, cool city vibe, but Ghent is a happy middle between the two.

This post contains affiliate links and I may receive a small commission if you make a purchase after clicking one of these links (at no additional cost to you!). Thank you for your support—it enables me to run this site ad-free!

Because it’s a university city, Ghent’s population skews young and the city remains active after dark. Outside of the sightseeing areas, we were often the only tourists around. The city has it all: a rich history, a picturesque square, museums, good food, and great beer – and it’s just a short train ride away from Bruges, Antwerp, and Brussels. Even if you’re planning on staying in another city (but please don’t) a visit to Ghent is worth your time. Here’s what else is worth your time:

GHENT SIGHTS + ATTRACTIONS

Gravensteen

It wouldn’t be a trip to Europe without a visit to a castle, would it? Gravensteen is located right in the heart of Ghent, and no, you don’t have to worry – getting across the moat is pretty easy. The audio tour is probably the most epic and entertaining one we’ve ever heard, but getting through all of the sections of the guide would probably take hours. Our recommendation? Just listen to the guide in rooms you’re particularly interested in.

→Gravensteen // Sint-Veerleplein 11, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Museum voor Schone Kunsten

The Museum voor Schone Kunsten (or MSK) is located near the main train station as well as the local university. The area feels very vibrant, just like the art contained within the museum. What you’re probably here for, though, is the restoration of the Van Eyck altarpiece The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, which is typically housed in St. Bavo’s Cathedral. Beyond that, the museum holds works from varying artists and periods, satisfying everyone in your bunch.

→Museum voor Schone Kunsten // Fernand Scribedreef 1, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Ghent Architecture

More of a quick stop to peer at, the Stadshal city pavilion is a work of modern architecture used for concerts and other events in Ghent. Certainly striking, its presence is not without controversy. The recently-completed De Krook is worth a stop as well as it’s been named one of the ten most beautiful modern libraries in the world.

→Stadshal // Poeljemarkt, 9000 Gent, Belgium
→De Krook // Miriam Makebaplein 1, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

S.M.A.K.

If you are one of those people who “get” modern art, this one’s for you. The S.M.A.K. is probably the most provocative modern art museum we’ve ever visited, and I’m not quite sure it’s for everyone.

As an example, one of the works present during our visit was a room filled with televisions and all of the TV sets showed looping video of people scratching themselves. Suffice it to say it’s not the thing for me. Thankfully S.M.A.K. is located near the MSK, allowing for a more traditional art experience breather if you need.

→S.M.A.K. // Jan Hoetplein 1, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Graffiti Street

In an effort to reduce vandalism, Ghent allows graffiti artists to display their work down a particular alley near Ghent’s famous cathedrals. The works vary in size and quality and are always changing – and you never know what you’ll see!

→Graffiti Street // Werregarenstraat, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Sint Baafskathedraal (St. Bavo’s Cathedral)

Sint-Baafskathedraal is one of three large spires in the Ghent city skyline – and is most famous for housing the Van Eyck masterpiece The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. As we’d seen much of the painting at the museum we opted to skip viewing it at its original home (there is a cost to enter that portion of the cathedral). The cathedral is strikingly beautiful – there’s still plenty to admire in the remainder of the church.

→Sint Baafskathedraal (St. Bavo's Cathedral) // Sint-Baafsplein, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Ghent Belfry

Another one of Ghent’s three spires, the Ghent Belfry, stands tall overlooking the city and for a small fee, you can do the same. The Belfry in Ghent wasn’t our favorite during this trip, but it was probably the easiest to reach the top of. It’s not fully accessible – there are some stairs – however, a lift carries you most of the way to the top, so you can save your feet at least a little bit.

→Ghent Belfry // Sint-Baafsplein, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Sint-Niklaaskerk

The final of Ghent’s three tall spires is Sint-Niklaaskerk (Saint Nicolas’ Church), and it too is worth a stop. In fact, all three of these structures are located in close proximity to one another and can be visited over the course of an hour or two if you’re rushed (but please, take more time if you can!). Check out the impressive organ while you’re there; there was a lesson going on during our visit. Can you imagine trying to learn to play in such a place?

→Sint-Niklaaskerk // Cataloniëstraat, 9000 Gent, Belgium

GHENT FOOD + DRINK

De Frietketel

De Frietketel won the title of Best Fries in Flanders, and judging by the line of university students outside, it is a title that’s well-deserved. Expecting a quick snack, we instead queued for about forty-five minutes before finally reaching frites-nirvana.

A word of caution, these are not your American fry sizes. Oh, no – these are larger than that. Fries come in puntzak (a small cone), small, large, and extra-large, so we figured a large would be plenty to share between us. What we were handed was a bundle of piping hot potatoes about the size and weight of an infant (with mayonnaise, of course!).

The fries are just as good as they say, so you can probably imagine our disappointment at having to toss what we couldn’t finish.

→De Frietketel // Papegaaistraat 89, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

De Dulle Griet

The beer menu at De Dulle Griet is overwhelming, just so you know. You’ll receive a book of over 500 beers, and you probably won’t know which one to get. You may giggle and get the Max beer – served in a tall glass, for which you must pay a temporary deposit of one of the shoes on your feet – or you may just close your eyes and point to something and drink whatever you end up with.

But if I can make a suggestion, go for the Westvleteren 12 (a notoriously difficult-to-obtain beer) if you see it. It’s pricey, yes, but this might be your only shot at enjoying one (short of ordering off eBay at an even higher price or driving to the abbey yourself).

→De Dulle Griet // Vrijdagmarkt 50, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

t’ Oud Clooster

t’ Oud Clooster is a lovely, intimate, and fun spot just shy of the bustling touristy area. It’s also open a tad later than some of the other restaurants, which is how we ended up there in the first place. With a small and cheeky menu, everything is cooked well (and the menu is available for purchase to bring home if you’d like). If we were locals, we’d probably frequent this place with friends and family – just as the other diners were.

→t' Oud Clooster // Zwartezustersstraat 5, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Alix – Table & Jardin des Amis

We’d hit that panic point where we’d nearly missed our window for lunch, and just barely stumbled upon Alix – Table & Jardin des Amis. At lunch, Alix serves up farm-to-table small plates in the dining room and out in the garden from their open kitchen (update: lunch and dinner are now for private groups only). Staff were relaxed and friendly – as if there was no other place they’d rather be.

→Alix - Table & Jardin des Amis // Kortrijksesteenweg 206, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

VOS Coffee & Tea

VOS Coffee & Tea (now closed) is a coffee oasis in its neighborhood – which is utterly surprising since its neighborhood is the university. Pop by for a quick jolt of caffeine, or linger for a while over your laptop like many students.

→VOS Coffee & Tea // Now Closed

—

Balls & Glory

There are a few Balls & Glory shops in Belgium, so even if you miss the one in Ghent you can catch them in Brussels, Leuven, or Antwerp. Balls & Glory sells baked and breaded meatballs (with a vegetarian option, too) served on Stoemp (potatoes) or a salad. After trying both, go for the stoemp, no matter how unhealthy it feels.

→Balls & Glory // Jakobijnenstraat 6, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

‘t Einde der Beschaving

Bars and pubs near tourist sites aren’t typically very good – they don’t have to be, because they don’t rely on the business of repeat customers. We happened upon ‘t Einde der Beschaving while walking back to our Airbnb. There were several bars and restaurants open at that hour, with patrons spilling out onto the sidewalks.

We gave each a quick listen before making our decision, and ‘t Einde der Beschaving was the only spot where we heard solely Dutch spoken. If the evening is nice, enjoy a Trappist ale on the patio (which is also how we found the bartender) overlooking the castle.

→'t Einde der Beschaving // Sint-Veerleplein 8, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Cafe Labath

If you can find a corner to tuck into, Cafe Labath is a great spot to catch up with friends or hang out for a bit over coffee. And if you’re missing ridiculously over-sugared coffee drinks, the staff at Cafe Labath have got your back.

→Cafe Labath // Oude Houtlei 1, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Mayana Chocoladebar

If you’re cold and can’t handle another coffee and tea, Mayana Chocoladebar makes a mean hot chocolate. Though, they have those too, both made with chocolate and cacao, if that’s what you’re looking for. And while I can’t vouch for their desserts, they all sound incredible.

→Mayana Chocoladebar // Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 208, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Castor en Pollux

There’s always pressure to have a lovely final meal in a city, and what a perfect last dinner we had at Castor en Pollux (now closed). Reservations are essential, and unfortunately, we only discovered this restaurant two hours before dinner.

On our first call to the restaurant, we were told there were no more available tables for the evening. On our second call (on my insistence!) ten minutes later, a spot had magically appeared. The place is small and bustling and was primarily filled with couples and larger girlfriend outings, clearly intending to stay until closing time. The menu is small and written chalkboard-style, and always changing. There are plenty of options for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.

→Castor en Pollux // Now Closed

—

Soup’r

Soup restaurants are big in Ghent. It’s something we’ve never encountered before, and I’m not sure why as the place we visited was, well, Soup’r. (Sorry, I couldn’t help it). The soup menu rotates frequently, and there are a few sandwiches on offer in addition to the soups.

Ordering is a bit confusing and not well-explained when you arrive, but the restaurant is counter-service: you order and pay at the register and linger and search for a table. Once you find one, alert the staff, and they will bring your order to you. We didn’t have to wait too long for a table, but beware that other diners may be circling like hawks.

→Soup'r // Sint-Niklaasstraat 9, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Barbiet

So, Barbiet (now closed) is an entirely vegetarian restaurant, which I didn’t realize when I brought my carnivore boyfriend in to eat breakfast. Thus, we were both so surprised to discover how much he enjoyed his meal. Sweet or savory is up to you – everything is so, so good and incredibly fresh.

→Barbiet // Now Closed

SHOPPING IN GHENT

A’pril

Need to complete your souvenir shopping all in one place? Quirky A’pril might be your best bet. While there were fewer Belgian items that I’d prefer, the shop houses enough things that your friends and family might find useful or fascinating – no matter their age or interests.

→A'pril // Burgstraat 27, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Mieke

Mieke is one of three ethical fashion stores I happened upon during this trip to Europe and one of the few places I purchased something to bring back home (that would be this pendant). A friendly layout is inviting for shoppers, and there is comfort to be found in shopping slowly. Staff offer no pressure to purchase, but make themselves readily available to answer any questions.

→Mieke // Burgstraat 87, 9000 Gent, Belgium

—

Ampersand

Similar in aesthetic to Mieke, Ampersand offers women’s clothing and accessories, mostly in a minimal style. I was most drawn to their accessories, particularly the jewelry, as they were a bit unlike anything I’d seen before.

→Ampersand // Serpentstraat 5, 9000 Gent, Belgium

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: TIPS FOR VISITING GHENT

Ghent is easily reached by train from Brussels, which means it can also be easily reached by Paris, Amsterdam, Cologne, or London. You can also arrive directly from Antwerp or Bruges, which makes it an ideal home base for travel within Flanders.

Once you arrive, purchase a Day Pass from De Lijn, the public transit system (they come in 1-, 3-, or 5-day options; edit: the 5-day option is no longer available, though 10-ride or 50-ride passes may now be purchased) at the Lijnwinkel outside of Gent-Sint-Pieters. Ghent is very walkable, but when you need to travel clear across town the trams are your best bet. They run quite frequently, though not terribly late at night. Locals seem to skip validating their cards, but please be a good tourist and remember to check in each time you use public transit.

You may notice that the city is spelled “Ghent,” “Gent,” or “Gand” depending on who is writing it. Ghent is located squarely in Flanders, and Flemish (or Dutch) is the language you’ll hear most often in the city. It’s not an easy language to pick up, but do be sure to attempt a few greetings and phrases – chances are someone will relieve you and switch to English.

Safety seems to be a growing concern in Ghent even for locals, however, we encountered no issues during our stay in the city. Staying within the core of the city and away from the outskirts and the university area at night made all the difference. If you’re unsure about an area’s safety, check in with your Airbnb host or hotel desk manager.

One surprising thing we encountered for the first time in our European travels, is the lack of availability of tap water at restaurants. In fact, we were told once that “it is illegal to serve tap water.” We can’t find anything online supporting that fact, but essentially businesses are not required by law to serve you water (as in, say, France).

We often found tap water in pitchers at coffee shops, but when dining at restaurants, expect to pay an extra €2-3 per person for bottled water. Better yet, order a glass of wine or beer for the same price and stay hydrated throughout the day (the best prices we found for bottled water were at Kruidvat).

FINAL THOUGHTS ON VISITING GHENT

Ghent really is a Goldilocks city for visitors to this corner of Belgium. It’s centrally located between other popular destinations, and it really has a little bit of everything: great food, great art and architecture, and a cool local culture.

As the girl herself would probably say, Ghent is just right.

—

Questions for you

Was Ghent on your radar before today?

Which Belgian city are you most excited to visit?

Enjoyed this post? You may also like:

Heading to Ghent soon? What are you most looking forward to seeing or doing?

Have any questions? Don’t hesitate to ask in the comments!

Share this post:

The Ultimate Travel Guide for Ghent, Belgium