I first encountered the sport Pétanque (also called Boules) when I was researching for my very first trip to France back in 2014. Upon arrival, I witnessed the cutthroat nature and unshakeable camaraderie of the players Michael and I saw in the parks of Paris and so were inspired to attend the largest tournament in the Americas the following year here in our home state. We returned this past November to Amelia Island to watch another tournament as part of our commitment to visit a different place in Florida each month – and what a day it was!
We arrived just before the start of Sunday’s afternoon matches – the quarterfinals – and grabbed an unmemorable bite to eat before heading to the tournament. Parking was particularly tough on that day, and we ended up parking about a half-mile away from the courts, which are located at the marina (the sand at the beach is not ideal for playing). No matter, walking through downtown is pleasant, and the streets are lined with cute boutiques and restaurants.
The quarterfinals began at 1 p.m., and we were able to get a refresher course on the rules by watching the play in action and by listening to others in the crowd.
The game of Pétanque is played with two teams of two on a gravel court, and a coin is flipped to determine which team initiates the match.
To begin, a player from the first team must stand in the designated circle and toss the jack (a three-centimeter wooden or resin ball) six to ten meters from the circle within the outer lines of the court. That player then throws their first of three boules (the larger steel ball) toward the jack, attempting to get as close as possible. The first player from the second team then tosses their first boule, trying to get as close as possible and/or knocking the opposing team’s boule away from the jack. Play continues with the player whose boule is furthest from the jack until all boules have been played.
Points are tallied at the end of each round and only the team with the boule closest to the jack will receive points. The winning team is awarded one point for every boule that ends up closer to the jack than the other team’s closest boule. Rounds continue until one team scores a total of 13 points, and the playing field changes slightly each time as the starting circle is moved to the location of the previous round’s jack.
In this tournament, teams of two are pitted against one another in five rounds of play, and at the end of the first day, the top 64 teams are determined (the top 32 will move on to play in the main area and the next 32 teams move on to play in the secondary area on the following day in two separate brackets). The remaining teams are divided into four “consulates” who continue to play on the second day within their own brackets. On the second day, the teams advance within their newly established brackets until a winner is determined. The tournament follows the international rules for the sport, and the umpire’s decision is final.
The sport can seem a little slow or boring at first, but I recommend picking a game to watch and focusing on both the fierce competition between both teams and the strategy employed to play a game so accurately. Also, at this particular tournament, wine and beer are on offer which makes the atmosphere surrounding the games a little more convivial and, well, buzzy.
As the brackets grow narrower, the crowds surrounding the courts grow denser. Bring your own chair if you can, and if not, try to secure one of the provided folding chairs (and guard it closely on those beer/wine breaks). Listen to the chatter in the crowd; chances are you’ll hear several languages being spoken around you. I think my favorite thing about Pétanque is the fact that nearly anyone can play, and you’ll see a wide range of ages, abilities, and nationalities. You simultaneously will cheer for the winners and commiserate with the losers of each round, all in the mostly pleasant Floridian November weather.
And between rounds? Grab another wine or beer from the tent (which has chandeliers).
And when it’s over? Toast the winners and head to the beach!
Where to Stay in Amelia Island
Living in Gainesville, for this trip, we just made the drive in and out for the day – but previously we’ve enjoyed a stay at the Omni Amelia Island Resort, right along the beach. If a big resort isn’t your cup of tea, there are plenty of charming inns in the heart of Fernandina Beach (I only write about places I actually experience, so sadly I’m unable to make a recommendation for the perfect one!).
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Have you ever played Pétanque? What is your favorite anyone-can-play-it sport?
