It’s true that overtourism has taken hold of Barcelona. When you combine a dense, walkable city with a multitude of sights and rich culture, there can be no other result.
Even during my visit in October, which is shoulder season, the crowds in parts of the city were unbearable. But sometimes you simply have to grin and bear it, and do everything in your power to avoid visiting the most desirable places at the most popular times. And other times, you skip other people’s “must-dos” altogether for more calm, delightful experiences.
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Michael and I had just four days in the city last month, and rather than spending all of our time (and money) running around the city checking things off a list, we decided to take the slow route. We picked a handful of our own can’t-miss sights and filled the rest of our time with aimless wandering, leisurely meals, found festivals, and even a concert. Ready to experience Barcelona without getting overwhelmed? Read on:
BARCELONA SIGHTS + ATTRACTIONS
Sagrada Familia
Sagrada Familia | C/ de Mallorca, 401, 08013 Barcelona, Spain
Antoni Gaudí’s masterpiece is nearing completion – there are fewer than seven years to go – and it truly is remarkable. As extraordinary as the exterior is, I was even more blown away by the interior. The light streaming through the stained glass is transfixing, unlike any I’ve ever seen. I highly recommend booking tickets in advance.
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Parc Guëll
Parc Guëll | 08024 Barcelona, Spain
Another Gaudí work that requires advance tickets, Parc Guëll was initially conceived as a housing complex. When that concept failed, the city converted the area into a park. If you are unable to secure tickets in advance, entry is free and unlimited before the park opens. If you can make the trek that early, I recommend it as the light is so pretty and soft – just be forewarned that this free entry period is not a secret, and even though most of the city is not yet awake, the park can be quite busy (see photo above). Can’t make it to Parc Guëll? Here is a map of the architect’s other Barcelona creations.
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Parc de la Ciutadella
Parc de la Ciutadella | Passeig de Picasso, 21, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
Barcelona is a great city for enjoying the outdoors, and this park was once the only green space in the city. On a stroll through the park, you might see lovers picnicking, people exercising, and performers, well, performing.
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Museu Picasso
Museu Picasso | Carrer de Montcada, 15-23, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
The Picasso Museum is a Goldilocks-sized museum. It’s neither too big nor too small – it’s just right. Although I think I prefer the museum dedicated to the Cubist artist in Antibes a little more, the Barcelona museum boasts a nice cross-section of Picasso’s work. Our schedule did not permit a visit during the museum’s free entry times, but it may be worth checking out to save a few Euros.
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La Barceloneta
La Barceloneta | Barcelona, Spain
Specifically, the beach! Surprisingly, Barcelona’s beaches are younger than I am. A local gentleman we spoke with even referred to them as “new” – although they were created for the 1992 Olympics. Either way, the platges are worth a stroll if the weather is beautiful.
BARCELONA RESTAURANTS
L’arrosseria Xàtiva
L'arrosseria Xàtiva | Multiple Locations
Though you might expect otherwise, it’s tough to find good, authentic paella in Barcelona. Sure, you’ll pass numerous restaurants with pictures of the dish posted outside, but they are certain to be way too expensive and not very good. Despite the meal’s undeniable status as a lunchtime dish, the group we were with wanted to have it for dinner, and L’arrosseria Xàtiva was a great middle-ground. It’s a long-cooking dish best intended for a group, so expect to wait a bit and share (it’s a bad sign if the dish pops right out of the kitchen or small portions are available). Seafood in the dish is very Barcelona, but this restaurant offers a Valencian version (rabbit, chicken, etc.) for those who don’t eat fish.
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Na Mindona
Na Mindona | Carrer de la Riereta, 8, 08001 Barcelona, Spain
This was one of my favorite meals of the trip, and proof that atmosphere is a key component of a great meal. Na Mindona serves up Mallorcan food in a small setting – there are just a few tables – along with friendly, homey service. The menu is entirely in Catalan, but the server was kind enough to translate the menu of the day (posted out front on a chalkboard) to Spanish for us. We lucked into a table at the end of lunch, but suggest calling ahead.
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Xiloka
Xiloka | Carrer de Cabanes, 22, 08004 Barcelona, Spain
Our first impression of Xiloka wasn’t great. We wanted to go because it had stellar reviews from a largely local population, but when we arrived we were turned away because there was a party occupying all of the tables. The following day we returned and we enjoyed a small drink at the bar while waiting on a table. As it gets later in the afternoon, only small plates are available. No matter – it’s always a delight sharing each dish together.
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La Pachuca
La Pachuca | Carrer d'en Carabassa, 19, 08002 Barcelona, Spain
I can’t hide my love for Mexican food – and toward the end of our time in Spain, I was really craving spicy food. La Pachuca was open late and fit the bill perfectly!
BARCELONA BARS + TAPAS
Golfo de Bizkaia
Golfo de Bizkaia | Multiple Locations
Just one look at its name tells you that this is a seafood-forward place – and it also happens to be a pintxo bar. Pintxos are small bites skewered with toothpicks, and rather than ordering a specific dish, you belly up to the bar and grab whatever looks good. When it’s time to pay, the staff adds up the toothpicks to determine the total price. Golfo de Bizkaia errs a bit on the touristic side of the spectrum, but it was perfect for our large group as there was a (very animated and helpful) server present.
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Bar Brutal
Bar Brutal | Carrer de la Princesa, 14, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
Once inside Bar Brutal you could swear you are in any achingly hip restaurant in any large city. It’s dark, loud, and a little expensive – but it also offers a modern take on small plates and craft cocktails (I also highly recommend checking out the well-planned wine list). It’s worth popping in if it sounds like your kind of place.
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Sabor de Barrio
Sabor de Barrio | Carrer dels Assaonadors, 25, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
When La Xampanyeria closed earlier than we expected, we headed to Sabor de Barrio to end our night. Although we were a bit rushed ordering, we enjoyed our late-night snack of patatas bravas.
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Mikkeller Bar Barcelona
Mikkeller Bar Barcelona | Now Closed
Sure, it’s Danish and a bit of a chain now, but Mikkeller does make some pretty great beers. And the Barcelona location (now closed) has a great outside patio for people-watching.
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Xup Xup
Xup Xup | Pg. Marítim de la Barceloneta, s/n, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
Normally I hate to recommend these overpriced beach tourist traps, but Xup Xup was relatively reasonably priced and offered a nice view of the water (and a blanket when the temperature dipped!).
BARCELONA COFFEE + SPECIALTY FOODS
Nomad Coffee
Nomad Coffee | Passatge Sert, 12, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
Nomad takes their coffee very seriously, and their lab makes for a fun visit if you are really into coffee. A bag of locally roasted beans also makes a great souvenir!
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Mercat Santa Caterina
Mercat Santa Caterina | Av. de Francesc Cambó, 16, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
Not my favorite market in Barcelona, but if you’re planning a picnic at Parc de la Ciutadella shopping here is a no-brainer.
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SlowMov
SlowMov | Carrer de Luis Antúnez, 18, 08006 Barcelona, Spain
Equally impressive as SlowMov’s coffee is their mission. They place a heavy emphasis on the origin of their products and sustainability practices. You’re likely aware that we all vote with our dollars when we purchase something; and personally, I think it’s important to keep doing so when you’re away from home.
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Orxateria Sirvent
Orxateria Sirvent | Multiple Locations
Unlike Mexican horchata, which is made with rice, Spanish orxata is made with tiger nuts. I found I preferred the taste of the beverage made with this nutty-tasting tuber more than its rice-based cousins. It’s definitely a sweet treat, but I dare you to resist downing the whole glass in one gulp.
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Basilicata Empanadas y Algo Más
Basilicata Empanadas y Algo Más | Carrer de l'Alcalde de Móstoles, 30, 08025 Barcelona, Spain
We enjoyed the pleasant conversation with the owner of Basilicata as much as we enjoyed our coffees and empanadas. This is the perfect place to stop after a hike up to Parc Guëll!
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Morning Glory
Morning Glory | Carrer de la Riereta, 15, 08001 Barcelona, Spain
The brunch crowd was buzzing at Morning Glory, but we only had time to try their coffee. So while I can’t attest to the food, the coffee was delicious – and the place is thankfully an oasis in somewhat of a good coffee desert.
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Mercat de la Boqueria
Mercat de la Boqueria | La Rambla, 91, 08001 Barcelona, Spain
The website’s claim that they are the “best market in the world” is pretty gutsy, but Mercat de la Boqueria is a pretty great market. Even though we were up early to visit, the market was already crowded. Hang on tight to your bags, and dive right in.
BARCELONA SHOPPING
Begemot Art and Fashion Gallery
Begemot Art and Fashion Gallery | Relocated to Switzerland
The line between fashion and art is already blurred, but Begemot Art and Fashion Gallery (relocated to Switzerland) seeks to intertwine the concepts even further. Here you’ll find unique designs that will challenge your sense of both.
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Grey Street
Grey Street | Carrer del Peu de la Creu, 25, 08001 Barcelona, Spain
Everything in Grey Street is tempting – there are several polite signs in the shop asking patrons to please not steal any items. It’s the perfect place to pick up a gift (even if it’s just for yourself).
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GreenLifeStyle
GreenLifeStyle | C/ d'Astúries, 34, 08012 Barcelona, Spain
I’m not sure who came up with GreenLifeStyle’s slogan first – them or another popular sustainable brand – but inside you’ll find a well-curated assortment of sustainably-made garments and beauty products.
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Sunsais
Sunsais | Passatge de Bofill, 4, Bajos, 08013 Barcelona, Spain
Sunsais is another conscious shop that focuses on ethically made products. My favorite was an assortment of Barcelona-made bags crafted from paper so durable you’d never guess that’s what it was.
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Caboclo
Caboclo | C/ dels Carders, 13, 08003 Barcelona, Spain
I’d already purchased espadrilles in Madrid, so it was with a heavy heart that I left behind the shoes at Caboclo. Each pair is handmade of leather, with a rubber sole made from used tires – and all are beautiful.
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Velvet
Velvet | Now closed
Velvet fills a void that many sustainable stores do not: they carry men’s items. In the shop, you’ll find products from brands like Veja, Armed Angels, and Bloi.
MAP: FOUR DAYS IN BARCELONA
KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: BARCELONA
Many of the points made in my Madrid guide are applicable in Barcelona, although there are a few notable differences. Major sights in the city aren’t nearly as close, which means you can expect to do a fair amount of walking. We supplemented our walks with the occasional bus or metro ride by purchasing the T-10 (now T-Casual) cards for €10.20 11.35 (valid for one zone; if traveling to/from the airport on the metro, a separate ticket is needed). By the end of our time in Barcelona, we each used eight journeys.
Barcelona is the capital of Catalunya, an autonomous region with its own language, government, and culture, that is currently grappling over the issue of independence from Spain. As a tourist, you’ll likely encounter supporters for and against separation, and, as was the case during our visit, large protests as well. We were fortunate to experience little interruption to our plans as we were following the news and announcements, but it’s always a good idea to keep abreast of the latest on Twitter and/or news sites.
Another difference we noticed between Madrid and Barcelona is that the bars in Barcelona aren’t open nearly as late. In Madrid, we found that many places were open well past midnight; in Barcelona, we were surprised to hear “last call” announced before 11 p.m. (if you’re looking to spend your night – well, morning – at the club, here’s a roundup of places open until the roosters’ crow).
As for where to stay in Barcelona, in theory, our flat near the Sagrada Familia was perfect: it was more-or-less equidistant to Eixample, Vila de Gràcia, Parc Guëll, and the edge of the Gothic Quarter. In practice, that meant we were lacking lots of great bars and restaurants within a twenty-minute walk. Next time, I would likely choose to stay in hip El Raval or boutiquey Gràcia.
With more time in the city, I would likely add Tibidabo, Montjuïc, a football game, the Cathedral, the Monastery, the Bunkers, and a day trip to Montserrat to the itinerary, among many others. However, my goal is to always travel with the mindset that I’ll return to a destination, giving me the excuse to fully immerse myself in a city without rushing. And Barcelona is a city I’ll gladly return to one day (just never in high season!).
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How do you prefer to approach cities with a large number of sights and attractions?
