Travel Guide: 36 Hours in St. Louis, Missouri

Ah, St. Louis, Missouri (also known as The Gateway City).

It’s a place that has been on my travel list for quite some time, yet Michael and I didn’t solidify our plans to visit until less than a week before departure. In fact, we weren’t even planning to be in the Midwest that particular weekend—we had every intention of parking ourselves on a Florida beach for a couple of days, leisurely moving between our Airbnb and the sand as needed throughout the day.

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Then a wave of algae swept in, dashing all of our hopes and ruining all of our (lazy) plans.

I’m not one to let a little algae get in the way of a weekend escape, so I turned to Google Flights, desperate to find a last-minute fare at a great price. And lo and behold, there was one: arriving just before 11 a.m. on a Saturday and departing the following afternoon.

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I quickly snapped up the tickets and began assembling a travel guide for 36 hours in the city, and the result is today’s post: a mix of local culture, landmark attractions, and delicious food.

Headed there yourself? The main sights are easy to see in a weekend, but I encourage you to budget more time if you can. Even with less time than that, visitors will find a city that is bursting with culture and a pleasure to wander aimlessly. Let’s explore:

ST. LOUIS SIGHTS + ATTRACTIONS

Iconic sights, a hearty dose of culture, and a whole lot of fun!

Exhibits at the St. Louis Arch Museum — Allow a little extra time to learn about the history of the Arch before your ride to the top

St. Louis Arch Car and view from the top — *left*: The tram cars feel like something from another time | *right*: Yes, the windows at the top really *are* this tiny!

View from St. Louis Arch — Take turns peering out the narrow windows to see the city below

The Gateway Arch

The Gateway Arch is visible from much of the city, and much of the city is visible from the top of the Gateway Arch. Designed by immigrant architect Eero Saarinen and opened in 1965, the Arch stands to commemorate Thomas Jefferson and the Louisiana Purchase. But mostly it’s just great fun (and a bucket list travel experience!) to ride to the top of this iconic structure.

I highly recommend purchasing tickets online in advance if possible, especially during peak seasons. Once you arrive at the base of the Arch, be sure to follow the signs to the new central entrance near the Old Courthouse. Here you’ll find an expansive exhibit about the history and construction of the arch, so be sure to budget a little time to check it out before your tram ride to the top.

The ride in the unique five-seater pods and the view from the top is well worth the time and reasonable entry fee. It’s a little on the crowded side up at the top, which isn’t all that surprising once you take a look at the shape of the structure. As always, be courteous to your fellow travelers so everyone can get the shot!

Notes: the facility is not fully accessible (the ride to the top requires tackling a few stairs), and the top can be crowded, even with limited entry.

→The Gateway Arch // Gateway Arch, St. Louis, MO 63102

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The Muny

The Muny typically charges for seats during its summer season in Forest Park, but arrive early enough and you can find a seat in the free seating area behind the main audience seating just as we did.

As luck would have it, Meet Me in St. Louis was playing during our visit (I mean, how fitting!), and while we couldn’t stay for the whole performance due to dinner reservations, we were both astounded by the sheer size of the venue and the talent of the performers. We could hear everything clearly from the free seats, but I’ve been swayed into buying tickets for my next visit!

→The Muny // 1 Theatre Dr, St. Louis, MO 63112

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Citygarden

Citygarden, located in the heart of downtown St. Louis, offers a refreshing escape from the city’s summer heat. This urban park seamlessly blends art, nature, and play, creating a welcoming space for both residents and visitors.

Here you’ll find an eclectic combination of modern sculptures, lush landscaping, and interactive features, making it a perfect shaded detour on a warm day. Best of all, Citygarden is free (I love it when cities prioritize accessible greenspaces in an urban environment).

→Citygarden // 801 Market St, St. Louis, MO 63101

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Alyssa walks up to the City Museum Entrance — The entrance to City Museum gives you a little taste of what’s ahead

Art at City Museum — City Museum is indeed a museum, but with art you might not expect

bar and slide at City Museum — Grab a drink at the bar and head down a five-story slide

City Museum

It seemed like everywhere we went, we were instructed by locals to visit the City Museum, and yet, it wasn’t even on our itinerary for our weekend visit.

But after hearing the suggestion often enough, we gave up on our plans to visit the Contemporary Art Museum and the Basilica (catch you next time!), and we are so glad we did. City Museum is part museum, part jungle gym, part spelunking adventure, and all slides. Each corner of the museum is designed to invite exploration and discovery, with hidden passages, climbing structures, and whimsical sculptures creating an environment that is both thrilling and inspiring.

By all means, please visit this one-of-a-kind attraction, and bring your sense of adventure and play (just don’t forget to wear jeans and close-toed shoes).

→City Museum // 750 N 16th St, St. Louis, MO 63103

WHERE TO EAT IN ST. LOUIS

From barbecue to all the latest trends...

Three photos taken at Winslow's Home — Pull up a seat at Winslow’s Table

The interior of Winslow's Home — Winslow’s Table has a neighborhood feel

Two dishes at Billie|Jean — For fine dining in St. Louis, head to Billie|Jean [*edit*: now closed]

Somewhere that feels contemporary

Winslow’s Table is right on trend as a part-market/part-farm-to-table restaurant. The restaurant was very busy during our Saturday breakfast visit, filled with locals dining at their go-to spot. Order at the counter and a hearty meal will soon make its way to you.

For a dinner option, “It” spot Vicia was closed for a private event during our weekend trip, so we pivoted and landed at Billie|Jean, ~~a relative newcomer~~ [edit: now closed]. I’ll always select a small, intimate restaurant over a large space, and Billie|Jean checked that box.

The music was a bit on the louder side (though that’s a rampant issue), but an outdoor table opened up shortly after arrival and we were graciously seated outside. Portions were generous, and we were appreciative of the celebratory sparkling rosé to mark our tenth dating anniversary.

→Winslow's Table // 7213 Delmar Blvd, St. Louis, MO 63130
→Billie|Jean // now closed

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Ribs from Pappy's Smokehouse — When in St. Louis, barbecue is a must (shown here: Pappy’s Smokehouse)

A platter of BBQ at Sugarfire — Sugarfire offers a modern take on the classic cooking style

BBQ, of course

Though, maybe not of course. While I often see packs of ribs at my local grocer labeled “St. Louis-style,” The Gateway City’s namesake barbecue is less of a barbecue style than simply a cut of ribs primed for grilling.

Still, we found excellent barbecue at both Pappy’s Smokehouse (reminiscent of Memphis style) and Sugarfire Smokehouse (a mix of styles from across the country). Don’t expect a particularly saucy dish (that’s over in Kansas City), but you’ll enjoy a good hearty meal all the same. Upon arrival, don’t let any lines deter you; they move quickly and the food is served up fast.

→Pappy's Smokehouse // 3106 Olive St, St. Louis, MO 63103
→Sugarfire Smokehouse // Multiple Locations

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A slice of Gooey Butter Cake — A slice of gooey butter cake is a must in St. Louis

A little something sweet

Ahh, Gooey Butter Cake.

Don’t you feel a little swelling in your arteries just by reading that? Well, it’s okay because you’ll burn off the calories at the City Museum.

Michael and I had the chance to try two versions of the sticky, achingly sweet dessert over our two days in the city: once at Park Avenue Coffee and once in pie form at Sugarfire. Both were delicious but should probably be consumed with less frequency.

→Park Avenue Coffee // Multiple Locations
→Sugarfire Smokehouse // Multiple Locations

ST. LOUIS COFFEE + BEER

Morning or night? Here are the places to stop for refreshment.

A pourover coffee from Blueprint Coffee — Map out your day over a pour over from Blueprint Coffee

A coffee and sparkling water at Kaldi's coffee — A perfect Gibraltar from Kaldi’s Coffee

St. Louis Coffee Shops

Ready for a really good cup of coffee?

Blueprint Coffee in the Delmar Loop serves up the kind of coffee that would be dangerous to have nearby as you’d be tempted to visit all the time. Best of all, they really know their beans, but the staff isn’t snobby about answering questions (you’ve had that happen before too, right?).

Kaldi’s Coffee is a small chain of specialty coffee shops with a few locations in St. Louis, Kansas City, Columbia, and Atlanta, Georgia. They do a great pour-over, and many of their smaller beverages (such as a cortado or Gibraltar) are accompanied by chocolate-covered espresso beans. As if I’d need another incentive…

→Blueprint Coffee // Multiple Locations
→Kaldi's Coffee // Multiple Locations

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The exterior of Urban Chestnut in St. Louis — Stop in for a pint at Urban Chestnut

Two photos taken at Urban Chestnut in St. Louis — Hang on the patio or chill in the taproom

St. Louis Breweries

While St. Louis already has a famous “local” beer (you’ve probably heard of it), I generally prefer visiting smaller breweries. A reader recommended Urban Chestnut, and it did not disappoint! The weather was warm during our August visit so we found our way inside for a pint of Fantasyland, but on a nicer day, the patio would be a perfect hangout.

→Urban Chestnut // Multiple Locations

WHERE TO STAY IN ST. LOUIS

A charming bed and breakfast for a romantic getaway.

Two images: The exterior of the Fleur de Lys and a fountain — The Fleur de Lys Mansion (*now closed*) makes for a charming home-away-from-home

The Reservoir Park Room at the bed and breakfast — Each room has a unique personality (shown here: the Reservoir Park Room)

A plate with Candied Bacon and a Cheese Blintz Souffle — Breakfast includes such delights as candied bacon and a cheese blintz souffle

Fleur-de-Lys Mansion

The Fleur-de-Lys Mansion (now closed) was the perfect choice for our anniversary stay in St. Louis. Built in the 19th century, the four-room inn is well-run by Jerilyn and Gary, who as innkeepers have left no detail unattended.

Our room was perfectly comfortable, and we were in heaven with all of the soft linens provided. And breakfast could not have been more perfect: fresh juice, a smoothie, candied bacon, and a delicious cheese-blintz soufflé served alongside a great cup of coffee.

We’ll definitely return to this lovely accommodation on a future visit (edit: as of 2024, the inn is no longer in operation).

→Fleur-de-Lys Mansion // Now Closed

WITH MORE TIME IN ST. LOUIS

There were so many sights we were unable to visit during our short stay that we would have loved to see, but that just means our next trip will be a breeze to plan. Should you find yourself with more time than we had in St. Louis, here are some additional options to consider:

•St. Louis Zoo, for making new animal friends
•St. Louis Art Museum, a historic institution with an impressive collection
•Contemporary Art Museum, for a look at works by today’s artists
•Cathedral Basilica of St. Louis, a century-old monumental cathedral
•Forest Park, to explore more of this oversized park that houses The Muny
•Meramec Caverns, a cool-looking limestone cave
•Laumeier Sculpture Park, a sculpture park with community programs
•Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, a local custard institution located on historic Route 66

As always, if you make it to any of these spots before I do, I’d love to hear your thoughts!

ST. LOUIS TRAVEL TIPS

Flights to St. Louis Lambert International Airport (STL) are available on many major legacy and budget carriers, including Delta, American Airlines, United, Frontier, and Southwest Airlines (the largest carrier at STL). The airport is located about a twenty-minute drive from downtown or a forty-minute ride on the metro.

Uber and Lyft (referral code links for ride credit) are both available in the area, though I noticed prices were much higher than in other cities. Due to the time, cost, and parking burden cars sometimes provide, we opted to go without during our visit, but for any stay longer than one night, I highly recommend renting a vehicle.

To keep costs down, we traveled about equally by Metro (a one-day pass was ~~$7.50~~ – now $5) and rideshares, though we still easily spent $100 in transport over two days (or roughly what we would have spent on a rental and downtown parking).

St. Louis is a sprawling city of neighborhoods, and I suggest working your way across the city one neighborhood at a time rather than bouncing between them. If you’re not renting a vehicle, it may be worth considering a stay downtown or along a metro line.

Once downtown, two rideshare scooter companies have placed electric scooters on sidewalks, but bear in mind a helmet is required and riders may not ride on the sidewalk.

FINAL THOUGHTS ON SPENDING 36 HOURS IN ST. LOUIS

No, thirty-six hours is not enough time to take in all the city has to offer, but it’s the perfect introduction. With iconic sights, an inclination to create beautiful public spaces, and tons of cultural opportunities, The Gateway City offers a welcoming invitation to return.

I’ll wrap with this: If you take away only one thing from this post, don’t leave town without visiting the City Museum.

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Questions for you

Have you visited St. Louis before? What are your favorite things to do in this great American city?

What is your favorite regional barbecue style?

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