*click*
*pop*
Did you hear that?
That’s the sound of the can of worms I’m opening in today’s post.
Few topics outside of say, sports teams, get people as riled up as they do about pizza.
Casually mention that you’re placing a pizza order, and a New Yorker will instantly make themselves known. A Chicagoan might pipe up immediately after, proclaiming either their fondness or hatred over their city’s namesake pies. And a Detroiter just may not say anything at all, because they’re already elbow-deep in a square slab.
But none of those places have been named Pizza Capital of the United States, a title entered into the Congressional Record on May 22, 2024, by U.S. Congresswoman Rosa DeLauro*. A title that belongs to New Haven, Connecticut.
This guide is not produced in partnership with any of the restaurants listed here and I purchased (and ate!) every dish shown. If you'd like to support my work, you can always send this post to a friend or buy me a coffee (because goodness knows I don't need any more pizza...).
The city has been synonymous with pizza for nearly 100 years, just perhaps a little more quietly so than their friends across the country. With a large Italian-American population, New Haven was destined to become one of the first cities to bring the joy of pizza to the people (and I’m just going to assume that the presence of college students at Yale perpetuated it).
But New Haven-style pizza is a little different from its other American cousins, starting with its name: Apizza.
ABOUT NEW HAVEN PIZZA
The Name
Apizza – not pronounced “a pizza” like you might expect, but “ah-beetz” – stems from its Neapolitan origins and the accent of its forebears.
The Crust
The defense “it’s not burnt, it’s charred,” will likely ring out if you announce your presence as a newcomer to New Haven-style apizza. The thin, part-crisp, part-chewy crust will undoubtedly come out of the fiery (and likely brick) oven with irregular blisters.
The pie should be piping hot when it hits the table (it’s a good thing “camera eats first” for this blogger, or I’d have returned home with plenty of blisters on the roof of my mouth as a souvenir). A lot of people recommend avoiding takeaway because the pies don’t hold well. A thinner crust means it cools quickly – so time your meal just right!
New Haven apizza is easily shareable; a small pie at any of the places on this list can be comfortably split by two or three people (maybe even four, if everyone had a smaller appetite that day). But note, in New Haven, the pizzas you receive may not be symmetrical or have even slices so be prepared for battles over the fair share of the pie.
And for my New York friends, ordering by the slice is very atypical in New Haven.
The Toppings
Cheese is not a given in New Haven, which means that vegans and dairy-free folks may have an easier time navigating the menu. Though specialty pizza combinations are all over the menus at the restaurants on this list, New Haven pizza is best not weighed down by a lot of toppings. Most people (including me!) will recommend that you choose your base (red or white), decide if you’d like cheese (yes, please), and pick a star topping for your pie.
Need a little guidance? Some popular New Haven pizzas include tomato pie, white clam pizza, and mashed potatoes (no, you’re not hallucinating – I did just say mashed potatoes).
The Big Three
There are three main stars on the New Haven scene, serving up apizza for generations: Pepe’s, Sally’s, and Modern. They’re all in this guide (spoiler alert!), and I have plenty to say about each of these intertwined institutions. But first, let’s get down to brass tacks.
ABOUT THIS GUIDE
I’m only going to say this once: this guide is not a ranking of New Haven pizza spots.
I know how seriously the people of pizza cities take their pizza preferences, and as an outsider, I certainly know better than to get into it with locals who have formed longstanding opinions on the pizza pecking order. Taste is so subjective, and I’d be willing to wager a not-insignificant amount of cash that nostalgia plays a huge role in our feelings about pizza. As New Haven apizza is not what I grew up eating, this guide is not a ranking of New Haven pizza restaurants.
(Whoops, I said it twice).
Well, in any case, that’s what this guide is not. So here’s what this guide is:
The result of hours of research, followed by an aggressive sourcing of six different pizzas from six different New Haven spots in a span of 72 hours. Because this isn’t a comparison post, I decided I was at liberty to order whatever my heart desired (I mean, can you imagine eating the same style of pizza for three whole days? It’s little things like this that make me enjoy being my own boss).
And in what might be a slightly controversial move, not every place on this list adheres to a traditional New Haven apizza product. After all, this is a guide to essential New Haven pizza joints (i.e., the places people go when they’re looking for a good pizza) – not necessarily a guide to essential New Haven-style apizza joints.
One final note before we dive in: the numbers in this guide are purely to keep me on track and these are sorted in alphabetical order to keep things easy – I’m still in a bit of a pizza fog, you see.
So, who’s hungry?
SIX ESSENTIAL PIZZA SPOTS IN NEW HAVEN, CONNECTICUT
1. BAR
With an Avelo flight that deposited us in the city at nearly 11 p.m. on a Thursday, we had to make a beeline to hit BAR before closing. Thankfully this bar and nightclub slings New Haven pies during the day and slices late at night (and it is what locals would surely consider to be a New Haven institution).
The menu is full of creative flavors that would appeal to a younger crowd, including a mashed potato and bacon combo that has been the pizza to order since the 90s. Late on that Thursday night we found a chill atmosphere and two remaining slices: Pepperoni and Mashed Potato. Naturally, we ordered one of each.
The photos above don’t do the slices justice thanks to BAR’s neon lighting, but what you can see is how hearty they are in size, spilling over the edge of the plate and threatening to graze the well-worn table. The red pie with pepperoni was a somewhat forgettable grease bomb, but the mashed potato and bacon pizza was pure delight (especially paired with a beer brewed in-house).
I would normally never consider piling starch on top of bread, but somehow this pie just works. The mashed potatoes are light and fluffy rather than gummy and the crumbled bacon on top is just salty enough to cut through and balance out the texture of the pie. I’m happy to say now that I get it.
You should get it too, but there are a few things you should know before you make your first visit: Slices are only available after 10:15 p.m.; when BAR is switched over to a nightclub on Friday and Saturday nights, a cover goes into effect and the club fills up with people dancing (you may encounter a line); staff will be checking IDs at the door and everyone must be 21+ unless accompanied by a parent during lunch or dinner. Oh, and psst… BAR has a secret menu.
→BAR // 254 Crown St, New Haven, CT 06511
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2. Da Legna at Nolo
Da Legna at Nolo calls their pizza a “scratch-casual approach towards New Haven pizza,” but I would call it “New New Haven” pizza. Just thin enough to be called thin-crust, the restaurant’s sourdough is batched from scratch and hand-rolled before being slid into a blazing wood-fired oven for a quick cook time.
The result? A blistered, tangy crust topped with high-quality and artisanal ingredients (find additions like fig preserves and truffle oil on some of the restaurant’s specialty pies). The pies here are not the definitive thin New Haven pizza crust you’ll find at BAR or the Big Three, but they are delicious and deserve to be on this list. Plus, Da Legna at Nolo just might be the most allergen-friendly pizza option here, with incredible-sounding gluten-free and vegan pies.
Despite being our second pizza of the day, we finished every slice of our meatball pie. While I wouldn’t consider piling on the toppings at some of the other pizza joints on this list, the crust here is thick enough that I think it could handle the number of toppings on the specialty pies. I did, however, enjoy the $7 savings of only ordering a one-topping pie – which went on to cover half of a nearly undrinkable cocktail. Michael wisely ordered a beer from the in-house brewed tap list from Hoax Brewing.
You would think the presence of a brewery would mean the space would have a more lounge-like atmosphere, but I don’t think I would feel comfortable only coming here for a drink. The vibes skew more restaurant or upscale brewpub than casual hangout spot, and we both felt the pressure to turn over our table as our pies and beverages dwindled. Just something to keep in mind as you’re planning your pizza adventures.
→Da Legna at Nolo // 687 State St, New Haven, CT 06511
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3. Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana
Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana is a mouthful, which is surely why locals simply shorten it to Pepe’s (and that’s “peh-pees” not “peh-pehs,” by the way). Whatever you call it, you’ll want to time your visit just right, as there’s bound to be a line out front. Michael and I beat the lunch rush, waltzing right into a booth but leaving to find a hungry crowd gathered and waiting.
We had a tough decision ahead of us – should we order the Original Tomato Pie (one of Frank Pepe’s very first apizza), the White Clam Pizza (this was where it originated, after all), or something else? With more pizza adventures ahead of us, we opted to keep things simple but interesting, topping a BYO pie with roasted red peppers.
Our booth gave us a good view of both the kitchen and dining room, allowing us to see the sheer speed and volume of the restaurant as pies emerged from the coal-fired oven. I also noticed that many of our fellow diners were enjoying their apizza with locally-made Foxon Park soda, which I regretted not trying.
Once our pie hit the table, it was hard to resist diving right in but we did it for the safety of our mouths. While waiting, it gave me plenty of time for observations. This apizza was one of the thinnest pies on this list, with a somewhat uneven distribution of toppings and char. Once cool enough to handle and dig into, I noted a chewy texture that turned fully crisp when approaching room temperature. The roasted red peppers stole the show, however – the little smoky and sweet gems on top.
Even if you can’t make the trip to New Haven, don’t fret: Pepe’s has locations up and down the East Coast, from Massachusetts to Florida. Even better, you can sign up for their rewards program for an instant $10 savings on your first order.
→Frank Pepe Pizzeria Napoletana // 157 Wooster St, New Haven, CT 06511
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4. Modern Apizza
According to my very unscientific survey (i.e. asking any New Havener I found myself engrossed in conversation with), Modern Apizza ranks at the top of locals’ lists for New Haven-style pizza in New Haven. Despite the name, Modern has been around since the 1940s (though of course, its roots go further back).
Being such a popular spot, I was pleasantly surprised when we encountered only a ten- or fifteen-minute wait for a table in the early evening hours on a Friday (though helpfully, you can order a beer or wine while you wait). Seated in our booth, we perused the menu. You would think I’ve already encountered every type of pizza topping in my thirty-plus years of pizza-eating experience, but versions with tuna or American cheese certainly gave me a little pause.
Thankfully I’d managed a few minutes of creeping on Reddit, where Redditors proclaimed the fried eggplant topping to be the GOAT, and so our order was swiftly placed.
What arrived at our cozy table was a softer and thicker dough base than I expected – and one that pleasantly surprised me by not turning to cardboard the moment it cooled. The fried eggplant was equal parts crisp and soft, and I appreciated how everything was evenly spread across the entire pie. It was hard to find a downside to the pizza at Modern; I think my only note is that it emerged from the oil-fired brick oven with significantly more char on one side than the other.
Blinking in our pizza-induced haze, we tumbled back out onto the street, past the cluster of regulars and families who were patiently waiting their turn, and vowed to return one day for more.
→Modern Apizza // 874 State St, New Haven, CT 06511
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5. Sally’s Apizza
While I made the executive decision to not order the same pizza at every location, I’d hoped to at least have a comparable experience at each restaurant on this list by dining in. You see, New Haven-style pizza is best eaten immediately after serving (and real plates are always a welcome bonus). Well, our efforts were thwarted at the final stop on our pizza itinerary: Sally’s Apizza, founded by Frank Pepe’s nephew Salvatore “Sally” Consiglio and located only a block away.
At 2 p.m., the line out front was still one or two hours deep, and rather than calling it a day and heading for the airport, we quickly rearranged the plans for our remaining hours in New Haven and placed an order for the next available pick-up time. Two hours later, a Sally’s box made its way into our hands.
We knew we couldn’t leave New Haven without a clam pizza (this being New England and all), and we ate ours huddled under a nearby awning, taking shelter from the rain. Despite perhaps being a little wetter than the restaurant version, the pizza was still piping hot and studded with char, chunks of sweet clams, fresh garlic, and funky parmesan. It was a thing of beauty, yet our only oblong-shaped pizza of the trip (why did this disappoint me, not having more funny-shaped pies? I honestly can’t say…).
The clams and garlic were a marvelous pairing, and the strong flavors left me feeling satiated faster than I might have been otherwise (the menu’s note that a “small serves 1” feels like an understatement – the two of us couldn’t even finish our small pie).
It certainly felt like a fitting final pie for our weekend, but if you’re located in New England, it doesn’t have to be your last. Sally’s has locations elsewhere in the state and in Massachusetts with even more on the way. Be sure to sign up for the rewards program for an instant discount on your order.
→Sally's Apizza // 237 Wooster St, New Haven, CT 06511
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6. Zeneli Pizzeria e Cucina Napoletana
As you can see from the above photo, this last spot does not make New Haven-style pizza, but New Haveners have clearly taken a liking to Zeneli Pizzeria e Cucina Napoletana (the restaurant even appeared at the Capitol to proclaim New Haven as the Pizza Capital of the United States). I don’t know if I would go so far as to make the very bold claim on their website that “Finally good Pizza has arrived in New Haven,” because I’d like to keep all of my fingers right where they are, but the pillowy traditional Napoletana-style pie was a refreshing break from the rest of the pies on this list.
While looking over the menu, I only wished a genie would appear and grant me more stomach space, because everything sounded delicious. The dining room is small and service is friendly, and in the same vein, the focus on ingredients appears to be on quality rather than quantity (although they served the most generous pour of wine I’ve received in ages).
A scorching-hot, traditional wood-burning oven is monitored by a watchful pizzaiolo, and pies emerge bubbly and beautiful. Concentrating on ingredients (quality tomatoes, oils, meats, fragrant basil) and techniques leaves nowhere to hide, and I was enthralled by the pillowy crust and soupy center of our Bufalina pizza (just like in Naples!).
I can see why it has become such a staple, but I do have one wish (and an odd one, given all of my pizza experiences over the weekend): I wouldn’t have minded a bit more char…
→Zeneli Pizzeria e Cucina Napoletana // 138 Wooster St, New Haven, CT 06511
FINAL THOUGHTS ON NEW HAVEN PIZZA
This is a judgment-free zone, so whether you prefer a New Haven-style pizza from one of the Big Three or an updated version from a newcomer, it’s all good with me. At the end of the day, even “bad” pizza is still pizza (not that there’s any bad pizza on this list!).
But there’s only one way to find your favorite, and that’s to give them all a fair shot. I hope this post has set you out on the right path – and not just because I put my body through the wringer to bring it to life. I can’t wait to hear which spot becomes your favorite New Haven memory!
*Fun fact: Back in 2000, Ms. DeLauro also entered into the Congressional Record that Louis' Lunch served the very first hamburger.
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Questions for you
Have another spot that you think is a contender for this list? Let me know in the comments!
What’s your favorite pizza topping?
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don’t forget east haven has a few good places for pizza not just new haven I’ve been to pepes for the clam pie can’t beat it modern for they’re Italian bomb is too die for Anelilos east haven for they’re Sicilian pie it’s great get all the time I’m there the family loves it I grew up in New Haven born and raised there are so many places to get pizza but few that I love don’t travel to far just for a good pie they’re all right in my backyard
Zuppardi’s in West Haven. Just celebrated 90 years in business. In my opinion, they are equal to Frank Pepe’s. I am from Brooklyn, NY and love their pizza. Here is a short video on their celebration of 90 years, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n1B9cuRi2V4&t=4s
I wish I’d been able to make it to West Haven during this trip, but I don’t mind having an excuse to return! Thank you so much for sharing about Zuppardis—it looks delicious!
I think someone should head to GG’s Wood Fired Pizza, Milford I-95 exit 37, and try their pizzas. It’s a tinny family owned restaurant, and honestly the BEST Red Margarita pizza (with hot oil ?) I have ever had in my entire life! Seriously you should try it! ?
Oh my gosh hot oil on a pizza sounds like perfection! I didn’t have a rental car on this trip so I kept close to the downtown core, but I’ve definitely added GG’s to my list for next time I’m in the area ?
So apizza trekker, I’m living on the west coast in the Bay Area. I understand Old blue eyes and chairman of the board of the rat pack a/k/a Frank Sinatra was a big fan of Sally’s apizza among other celebrities. However, you seem to suggest eating a New Haven apizza right out of a wood fire oven is the only way to consume it for its true essence? If so, am I likely wasting my money ordering pies from Sally’s shipped by Gold Belly to consume?
While I haven’t ordered the pies from Goldbelly myself, I suspect they’d be at least 90% as good as ordering it at the hallowed restaurant itself! After all, it looks like they ship par-baked, already infused with almost a century’s worth of flavor from their ovens.
(Though the chance to try apizza right from the source is certainly enough reason to book a flight to New Haven!).
As a senior citizen booking a cross country 6000 mile round trip flight just to consume a New Haven pizza seems a extravagant. However, I previously ordered philly cheese steaks shipped through Gold Belly and I thought they were tasty and worth the expense. Nonetheless, I had the Real Mccoy from Tony Luke’s in Philadelphia while I was there on a trip and would have to defer to that Philly cheese steak as better quality than the Gold Belly steaks I ordered.