For my final meal in Rome, I knew Michael and I had to choose an amazing restaurant – but we just didn’t know where.
Not wanting to suffer through another touristy spot, we consulted both the internet and our Airbnb hosts’ recommendations. We’d found that a lot of places require reservations, and we knew we needed to figure out a few options in case we were turned away. After pouring over restaurant reviews and looking at the map, we could only find one place that was open and looked amazing: Da Enzo al 29.
We took the bus to Trastevere and walked to the restaurant. They had just opened and it was early, but the place was packed. We spoke to the gentleman at the front, who wrote our names on his small notepad and instructed us to come back in an hour to an hour and a half.
Biding our time, we popped in for a cheap beer at Bar San Calisto in Piazza di San Calisto. There were no remaining tables outside, though we did find two plastic chairs just beyond the patio entryway. We sat and people-watched, ordered another beer, and chatted about our experiences in Rome.
Leaving a city in the middle of your itinerary is always bittersweet – you feel a mixture of sadness at leaving and the excitement of visiting the next place. Suddenly, a bar employee came over to us, speaking sternly in Italian. We couldn’t understand what he was saying, but his very clear hand gestures told us to scoot out of our chairs right away, and so we did.
Hungry for more? Check out the rest of my Restaurant Reviews.
At this point, we figured it was best to head back to the restaurant, and we were glad we did. A large crowd had gathered outside of the restaurant’s patio seating area, groups chatting away and watching the diners to spot any sign of them leaving.
We waited for what felt like a long time, around twenty-five minutes, to get the attention of the man with the magic list. Unfortunately, we never did. However, we did witness a group of four get very angry with him, shouting that they should be seated at a currently available table.
With nothing else to do but wait, nosy me watched in curiosity. It turns out, the available table had five chairs, and a group of five was on the list. Although these guests had arrived after the four-person group, they were seated first.
Michael and I weren’t too surprised by this; after dining in Italy for a week, we noticed that it is common practice to fill all seats at all available tables. Of course, we also know that yelling and screaming doesn’t get you your way, so we kept our mouths closed. Eventually, our name was called on the list and we were seated. For once, we were happy to dine inside, away from watching eyes, rather than out like a goldfish on the patio.
Settled in, we started our meal with a half-litre of the house wine and the burrata. The latter arrived already cream-soaked and oozing with the freshest tomatoes, basil, and olive oil.
After our starter, we both received our mains. It’s traditional to order an appetizer, a pasta, and a meat dish, but we never fully adjusted to the stomach space or budget required to adhere to this practice. So, after winning rock paper scissors, Michael ordered the Carbonara (Da Enzo’s most famous dish) and I ordered the lamb with grilled vegetables.
My lamb was flavored and cooked perfectly, if only a little bit sparser on the meat than the lamb served back home. The grilled veggies were served ice-cold, a new one for me!
Always keen to try a little of everything, we swapped plates halfway through the meal.
But I noticed that my usually carnivorous partner gripped his plate extra hard before finally letting go. One bite later, I understood why.
Crispy-soft chunks of guanciale hide beneath hearty tubes of pasta coated in the silkiest, most unctuous sauce you can ever imagine. I savored each and every bite of this dish, one noodle at a time. When the bowl was empty, I swiped my fork over the empty space, over and over to try to snare every drop of sauce.
I honestly think this is the best bowl of pasta I’ve ever had.
Despite being too full to finish all of the lamb and vegetables, we ordered another wine and also dessert (not pictured, because we ate it too fast!). The mascarpone mousse was studded with tiny wild strawberries, each one packed with more intense strawberry flavor than I’ve ever experienced on this side of the Atlantic. I regretted ordering only one to share.
Although service was a little rushed (to accommodate the hoards of hungry people lined up outside!), this meal was the highlight of our trip. We’ve been to many, many places that serve innovative cuisine, and while they always deliver something delicious and unexpected, I’ve found that small, local places that emphasize good quality ingredients and exhibit a mastery of their small menu are always the ones I remember most. Until next time, Roma.
[edit: I’m thrilled to say we finally returned to Da Enzo al 29 a couple of years later, and the Carbonara was every bit as heavenly as I remembered. This time, we each ordered a bowl – no sharing, no way]
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What are some of your most memorable dining experiences while traveling? I’d love to know!
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