The Ultimate Day Trip Guide for Delft and The Hague

Tell someone you’re heading to Delft and they’ll immediately conjure up either: mental pictures of scenic canals and swimming patterns of blue and white pottery, or a faintly hidden look of confusion.

Delft is tiny yet has been established on the tourist trek – but if you’re willing to give a wide berth to the shops selling mass-produced wooden shoes and windmills, you can combine it into a lovely, leisurely day trip with a place few tourists seem to consider: The Hague (or in Dutch, Den Haag, which is how I’ll refer to it from here on out).

Only thirty minutes on a train separates the two cities (and it’s just a little longer if you choose to go by tram), and getting to either from Amsterdam – our home base – only takes an hour. With only a day to spare between the two vastly different cities, here’s what I recommend:

DELFT

Oude Kerk

Though it sits slightly crooked on its foundation, the Oude Kerk (Old Church) is a bit more impressive on the inside than the Nieuwe Kerk. The admission price includes entry at both the old and new churches, and you have the option to buy a combination ticket with entry to the tower at the Nieuwe Kerk. Only buy this option if you’re ready for climbing and can handle small spaces well. Either way, be sure to walk about inside; the grave of Johannes Vermeer (whose most famous painting, Girl with a Pearl Earring, can be seen just thirty minutes away) is located within.

→Oude Kerk // HH Geestkerkhof 25, 2611 HP Delft, Netherlands

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Nieuwe Kerk

What a juxtaposition – during my visit, a fun fair was set up right in front of the New Church. We didn’t make it to the very top of the tower at the Nieuwe Kerk, and that’s completely fine. On such a windy day, it was preferable to stay lower – besides, cities are best viewed from not-quite-so-high-up.

The interior feels a tad more sterile than the old church – the new church isn’t modern by any means but it just isn’t as ornate as its predecessor. Instead, what makes this church remarkable is who is buried here. Nearly all Dutch royals since William of Orange have been laid to rest right here in the Nieuwe Kerk in Delft.

→Nieuwe Kerk // Markt 80, 2611 GW Delft, Netherlands

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Kek

You must stop in for coffee and a bite at Kek while in Delft. It’s located near the tourist spots, yes, but I’m pretty sure we were the only tourists in the place. Stick to the milk-based espresso drinks, and be sure to linger for a bit and check out the local-made goods.

→Kek // Voldersgracht 27, 2611 EV Delft, Netherlands

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Delft Market

Thursday is market day in Delft, and we made every effort to be there. Delft’s market is much smaller than the monstrous markets of Amsterdam and Rotterdam, which really just means it’s lovelier. The fish stand was the busiest of all, and we were the only people who ordered herring in English.

Prior to our visit, we assumed that herring was one of those traditional dishes that nowadays is primarily consumed by tourists. We were proven wrong, and learned to eat our shared herring the local way by watching others around us: hold it above your mouth by the tail – and this is important – which you must wrap in a napkin.

Michael learned the hard way not to touch the fish with your bare fingers. Unlike King Midas, rather than turning everything to gold, everything he touched then bore the odor of fish (to this day, our camera still smells faintly of it).

→Delft Market // 2611 GR Delft, Netherlands

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Cars parked along the canal in Delft — Can you imagine stepping out the driver’s side?

Wander

Not so much a destination as a directive: move away from the crowds, and just keep walking. Delft is simply put, just really pretty to look at. Its compact size makes it perfect for getting a little lost – without getting too lost.

DEN HAAG

Zebedus

Zebedus is located in a church. I mean, it says that on the website, but I didn’t really understand that until we got there. Our choices were limited as it was well after the standard lunch times when we arrived (thankfully they serve lunch until 4:30 p.m.), however, I can confidently say I would eat here again – no matter the hour.

→Zebedus // Rond de Grote Kerk 8, 2513 AM Den Haag, Netherlands

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Hometown Coffee (now STAN)

We didn’t look up cafes in Den Haag because we knew we’d be going in the afternoon, but Hometown Coffee (now STAN) was there for us when we hit an unexpected slump late in the day. Conveniently located at Buitenhof, they don’t let their prime location carry the weight of their product – Hometown makes a mean espresso.

→STAN // Buitenhof 5, 2513 AG Den Haag, Netherlands

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Istana

Den Haag has a large Indonesian population, and Den Haag is arguably one of the best places in the Netherlands to try Rijsttafel. Istana serves a spread that can barely be contained on the table and is bursting with flavor and textures. The price (€57.50 for two, at the time of my visit) was more than reasonable for the quantity and quality of food we received, and though we were hungry on arrival we were only able to finish about half of the dishes provided. Dessert is also included with the rijsttafel – don’t miss the delightful rosy treat, Es teler.

→Istana Indonesisch Restaurant // Wagenstraat 71-73, 2512 AR Den Haag, Netherlands

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Mauritshuis

Michael and I had the Mauritshuis nearly to ourselves (with the exception of a film crew from the Dutch lottery) – and you can too, if you visit on a Thursday evening. Many museums stay open late one evening each week, and the crowds are often thinner. By visiting on a Thursday night, you can view paintings like Vermeer’s Girl with a Pearl Earring and Fabritius’ The Goldfinch at your leisure, without peering over other patrons’ shoulders.

→Mauritshuis // Plein 29, 2511 CS Den Haag, Netherlands

WITH MORE TIME IN DELFT AND DEN HAAG

Both of these cities offer ample opportunities for exploration and have something to please everyone, which is why they warrant at least a day’s visit. That’s all the time we had to spare, but if you have more time, here are some options to look into:

In Delft

Learn about the famous blue-and-white pottery at Heinen Delft Blauw or Royal Delft, stroll through the botanical gardens at the local university, get to know the life and works of Johannes Vermeer in more detail at the Vermeer Centrum, and get to know the city’s history at the Prinsenhof.

In Den Haag

Gain a better understanding of Dutch politics by taking a tour of the Binnenhof, help the younger ones you’ve brought with you gain a better understanding of the place they’re in by visiting the Madurodam, hop on a bike and head to Scheveningen to dip your toes in the sand, marvel at the fate of 16th-century Dutch prisoners at the Gevangenpoort, return to the present at the Gemeente Museum (now Kunstmuseum), surprise a gearhead with a visit to the Louwman Museum, and marvel at Escher’s works at Escher in Het Paleis.

OUTFIT DETAILS

contains commissionable links

Silk Dress* | Tights | Necklace* | Bar Earrings* | Bag* | Leather Jacket* | Waterproof Boots*

This outfit was comfortable everywhere we went, though I had to fight a few wind gusts. All-black is perfect for traveling as it blends in anywhere, and a dress really helps your chances of squeezing in for a last-minute dinner at a fancier place, if needed. Any time I wear fabrics that call for hand-washing, I like to throw on an Airism top to lessen the amount of contact with my skin. Though we climbed a lot of stairs and covered a lot of cobblestoned ground on this day, a low-heeled, chunky boot worked just fine.

*this item is no longer available and a similar one is linked

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Dutch Day Trip Guide for Delft and The Hague