Travel Guide for Four Days in Memphis, Tennessee

About a year before Michael and I visited Nashville for the first time, we visited Memphis, Tennessee (I imagine most people visit those two cities in the opposite order!). Although this trip took place eighteen months ago – nearly nine months before I started this blog – I plan on sharing some of these past trips in this space this year. I hope you don’t mind!

For the uninitiated, to save days off, I generally aim to take trips over long weekends – and our trip to Memphis was no exception. Seizing a cheap fare, we caught a Friday evening flight out and returned in the evening on Monday, July 4. This meant we missed the city’s fireworks display over the Mississippi River, but didn’t miss a day of work (crucial, since we’d just returned from France a few weeks prior!).

It was our first time flying on Allegiant Airlines, a budget airline known for its barebones base fare, flying into airports further afield, and only flying on certain days of the week. Our flight was certainly not a glamorous experience, but the price was right and we shared a carry-on to save money. We only had about two weeks to plan this trip, so we narrowed our focus accordingly and focused on finding excellent barbecue and catching a few sights.

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We skipped Graceland on this trip, both due to the cost and because we’re not big Elvis fans (I mean we don’t dislike Elvis, we’re just not the attraction’s target audience). Downtown Memphis is pretty walkable, and our hotel also offered a free shuttle to locations within a certain radius, so we didn’t rent a car. Any time we needed to fill in the gap, we took an Uber or Lyft (those are affiliate links to use if you wish, with free rides or discounts for new users), whichever was cheapest.

With four days in the city (three and a half, really), here’s how we spent our time – and here’s what I’d recommend for future visitors to the Bluff City:

DINING IN MEMPHIS

Charlie Vergo’s Rendevous

Charlie Vergo's Rendevous | 52 S 2nd St, Memphis, TN 38103

I jokingly suggested we use the hashtag #meatsweats before we left for Memphis, but after four days of barbecue and fried chicken, it wasn’t far from the truth. We started our BBQ adventure at downtown Charlie Vergo’s Rendevous, located down a flight of stairs in an alley. If there’s a short wait, have a local beer at the bar while you wait for your table to be ready. The place has merch, a general sign that it’s a little on the touristy side, but the ribs were stellar. Memphis is known for dry-rubbed pork ribs and slaw, and this was a great introduction.

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Central BBQ

Central BBQ | Multiple Locations

Another must-visit barbecue spot in Memphis is Central BBQ. It seems everyone in town has an opinion on who serves the best ribs, and they’re more than happy to make their case (translation: enter this conversation with caution). We chose our meals based on operating hours and what our plans were for the day, which is how we ended up at Central. There was a long wait outside in the July heat, but that left plenty of time for conversation with those around us. Once we made it in, we shared the slab for two, which had much more sauce than the ribs at the Rendevous. Both were good, but the ribs at the Rendevous were slightly better, though the sides at Central took the cake. One of our new friends from the line outside, a vegetarian, agreed.

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Payne’s BBQ

Payne's BBQ | 1762 Lamar Ave, Memphis, TN 38114

I’m pretty sure we made our Lyft driver nervous when we asked her to take us to Payne’s BBQ. A longtime local, she couldn’t believe that two out-of-towners were asking her to drive them to this part of town. Payne’s is a tiny hole-in-the-wall joint that only accepts cash (which is why we could only afford one side and one dessert), and when you walk in, you might accidentally assume you’re in the wrong place. We didn’t need to worry, however; the guy in line behind us assured us that he came to eat there every day. We’d heard that pork sandwiches were the way to go, so that’s what we ordered (though Michael whined a little bit at the thought of not eating ribs). Incredibly messy to eat, but incredibly delicious.

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Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken

Gus's World Famous Fried Chicken | Multiple Locations

A plate of chicken from Gus's Fried Chicken in Memphis — Fried chicken, mac & cheese, bbq beans

We hadn’t planned on eating at Gus’s World Famous Fried Chicken – we had planned to eat at Cozy Corner to try their barbecued Cornish hen. Sadly, we arrived to find a sign on the door saying they had run out of food for the day. Many places aren’t open on Mondays in Memphis (to add insult to injury, it was also July 4) so we had lunch at Gus’s instead. Technically, the restaurant is a chain (something I tend to avoid), though you’d never know it by walking into its downtown location. With locations spanning from LA to ATL, the restaurant is known for its fried chicken, which was perfectly crisp and juicy. My favorite dish we had, though? The chess pie, which we opted to take in a to-go container moments before leaving.

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Hog & Hominy

Hog & Hominy | 707 W Brookhaven Cir, Memphis, TN 38117

Sometimes when we travel we try to eat a “nicer” meal or at one of the city’s “hip” restaurants. We had a few to choose from in the Brookhaven Circle area but settled on Hog & Hominy. Our waitress deemed the menu “small plates” and suggested we share five or six items. We settled on three dishes and two overpriced drinks, figuring we’d order more if we were hungry. We hardly saw her again after that, and it’s just as well. The food was just alright, and perhaps not quite as creative as their prices.

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Gibson’s Donuts

Gibson's Donuts | 760 Mt Moriah Rd, Memphis, TN 38117

We had to stop at Gibson’s Donuts. I rarely eat donuts here at home, but when we’re traveling, they’re all I want to eat and Gibson’s is the kind of place I want to go to eat them. It’s been around since the 1960s and is open all day and all night. We were there in the afternoon, but I imagine the place is busy after late nights out. There aren’t always many places where people from all walks of life come together, but this is one of them.

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City & State

City & State | 2625 Broad Ave, Memphis, TN 38112

The downtown Memphis area is somewhat lacking in good coffee, so we headed to City & State one morning before visiting the Memphis Zoo. The coffee was awesome, and so was the little shop attached which carried lots of local and quirky goods. I purchased a pair of earrings, and I wear them often.

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Earnestine & Hazel’s Juke Joint

Earnestine & Hazel's Juke Joint | 531 S Main St, Memphis, TN 38103

After reading about the history of Earnestine & Hazel’s Juke Joint (good articles here and here), we couldn’t resist a visit. The former brothel and Jazz cafe saw so many big names come through its doors in its heyday (Aretha Franklin, Little Richard, Mick Jagger, and Chuck Berry, to name a few!), and is supposedly haunted. The jukebox emitted a sound on its own while we were there, and the upstairs rooms were creepy in their own right. Had we been hungry we would have each devoured one of their Soul Burgers, but instead we settled in for a pint and a good look around.

MEMPHIS SIGHTS + ATTRACTIONS

Beale Street

Beale Street | Beale Street, Memphis, TN

We visited Beale Street on our first night in Memphis after eating dinner. We’ve heard it compared to Bourbon Street in New Orleans, ~~but I’ve actually never been so I can’t really compare~~ (update: I have since visited New Orleans, and the similarities are there, but they party harder in NOLA). It did feel a bit like Nashville’s Broadway, just with blues instead of country music. Still, it wasn’t necessarily our scene. A shooting had recently occurred, and there were guards placed at the street’s entrances doing bag checks. The street was filled with people drinking heavily out of large vessels (it’s one of the few areas in the US where you can do such a thing) and buskers catering to the large crowds. Many of the bars with live music had a cover charge, but we grabbed a pint and listened to a few songs at Club Handy before heading back to our hotel for the night.

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Overton Park Shell (formerly Levitt Shell)

Overton Park Shell | 1928 Poplar Ave, Memphis, TN 38104

On one of our evenings in Memphis, we headed to Overton Park to attend a free soul concert at the ~~Levitt Shell~~ now Overton Park Shell (or simply, The Shell). The crowd was pumped for the free show, and there were plenty of food trucks available for folks who got hungry while listening. The view and the acoustics were both great, though we wished we had brought a blanket or chair. We made do and enjoyed the evening with Memphis locals. I highly recommend you find time to do the same!

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Memphis Zoo

Memphis Zoo | 2000 Prentiss Pl, Memphis, TN 38112

A panda in a zoo enclosure — Panda, you’re doing it wrong.

One morning we got up early, ate a forgettable brunch, and walked through Overton Park to the Memphis Zoo. Despite still being early in the day, it was hot out. We were tired, and the animals were tired. Still, it was a pleasant zoo, just the right size to visit in a few hours.

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Sun Studio

Sun Studio | 706 Union Ave, Memphis, TN 38103

We may have missed Graceland, but we definitely couldn’t miss Sun Studio, where Elvis, Roy Orbison, and Johnny Cash recorded (just to name a few!). Naturally, we weren’t the only ones to want to take the tour, and when we arrived we were told the next tour leaving was already full. Not wanting to come back another day, we paid for the following tour time and ventured to a nearby brewery to beat the heat and wait our turn. Our guide was very lively and took us through the history of the recording studio, demonstrating how music was set on records and playing a few for us. The tour ended at the “Elvis mic” where each group could take a photo with the microphone Elvis used. The pressure to take a quick photo resulted in a poor outcome for us.

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National Civil Rights Museum

National Civil Rights Museum | 450 Mulberry St, Memphis, TN 38103

Expect to spend longer than you planned for at the National Civil Rights Museum. Located in the Lorraine Motel, where Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr. was assassinated in April of 1968, the museum complex provides an immersive, interactive experience for visitors. Though it was already well-known before Dr. King’s death (this article in the New Yorker provides a very eloquent account), the motel will forever be synonymous with the civil rights movement. Room 306, left exactly as it was the day Dr. King occupied it, offers a somber reminder to visitors. The museum’s purpose may be to highlight events from the past, but it sends an important message about how far we still have to go.

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Memphis Street Art

Downtown Memphis Mural Guide | Multiple Locations

Downtown Memphis is full of street art and murals, and I truly appreciate the city’s investment in public art. Some of them are deeply meaningful, while others are more lighthearted. A catalog of the city’s art and mural locations can be found here.

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Peabody Hotel

Peabody Hotel | 149 Union Ave, Memphis, TN 38103

Through no intentional efforts, I can say that I have seen the Peabody ducks at every Peabody Hotel (though the hotels in Little Rock, Arkansas, and Orlando, Florida have changed hands and no longer have ducks). In the 1930s, after a few too many adult beverages, the hotel’s general manager thought it would be a lark to bring their live hunting duck decoys back to the hotel and place them in the lobby fountain and the rest is history. Less well-known, but more exciting to me, at least, is the fact that the hotel has a piano owned by Francis Scott Key. There’s no sign saying it was owned by the composer of our national anthem, just a piano upstairs with a protected covering and a sign saying “Please do not touch.”

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Bass Pro Shop

Bass Pro Shop | 1 Bass Pro Dr, Memphis, TN 38105

My family was very surprised. “You went into a Bass Pro Shop? On purpose?” To tell the truth, you’re probably thinking the same thing. We weren’t really planning to go to the outdoor store’s biggest location, a former sports arena, but it was a full-blown swamp-weather day, and the store provided an air-conditioned shortcut back to our hotel. We looked at alligators in their aquarium, gazed up at their hotel rooms and bowling alley, sampled fudge in their confectionary, and played a shooting game. We skipped a ride on the world’s largest free-standing elevator (~~$10 each~~ now $8, meh), and were out of there in a short amount of time. I think it’s definitely worth a stop if you need a little A/C.

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Rec Room

Rec Room | Now Closed

Late one evening we found ourselves without plans and took a rideshare over to Rec Room, a large warehouse space with vintage arcade games, board games, and rentable “living rooms” with sofas and your favorite video game projected on the wall in front of you. Kind of like family game night on steroids with a full bar available. No photos (sorry, pre-blog!), but I promise it’s worth it.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: MEMPHIS, TENNESSEE

Air Canada, Allegiant, American, Delta, Frontier, OneJet, Southern Airways Express, Southwest, and United all fly into Memphis (non-stop service map here). Many conventions are held in the city, which means you may find good rates at convention hotels on the weekends. Check the weather before you go; we didn’t experience rain in July, but we walked a lot and really sweated through our clothes in the Southern heat. If you stay downtown, be aware that parking is expensive, yet public transit is not that great. Consider skipping the rental car (unless you’re planning lots of day trips, like to Graceland, Oxford, or Little Rock) and take Uber or Lyft rides instead. Be alert when walking around after dark, especially downtown. As always, use your city smarts!

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