Once upon a time, it seems—at least to me—that linen was linen.
Visit any thrift store with a decent amount of linen from 15+ years ago, and I suspect much of it will feel the same, regardless of the brand: cool, crisp, and dense. And if you’re lucky, it will also feel soft, because its previous owner handled all the washing and softening for you.
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The new generation of linen only slightly resembles its predecessors. If you haven’t seen it firsthand, you may have noticed it in some of my reviews here from brands like Quince and Everlane: today’s linen is significantly thinner (and more sheer) and often blended with other fabrics to reduce cost and wrinkles (but let’s be honest—in most cases, it’s probably the former).
Ever the optimist hoping to find quality clothes in today’s market, I’m thrilled to bring you a new review of linen from a brand I’ve frequently shared here: Universal Standard.
ABOUT UNIVERSAL STANDARD
Today the brand emphasizes inclusivity and diversity by providing apparel in sizes 00 to 40, ensuring everyone has access to stylish clothing that fits.
Save an extra 10% on Universal Standard's linen (or anything else - even sale!) with code INFS-AMBWAYWARD
ABOUT LINEN
Linen is derived from the fibers of the flax plant and is one of the oldest textiles in the world. The natural qualities of flax fibers give linen its distinctive characteristics: a crisp hand feel, durability, and a slightly lustrous finish. Unlike many modern fabrics, pure linen is biodegradable.
Linen is a particularly popular fabric choice for the summer thanks to its excellent breathability and moisture-wicking properties. This means air can easily circulate to keep the body cool, while absorbing and releasing moisture quickly ensures it is comfortable even on the muggiest summer day. As a current Carolinian and former Floridian, you’ll find this fabric all over the outfits shared on my website.
For a controversial opinion that will upset linen purists: I tend to prefer linen blends more than most 100% linen garments. There, I said it. Yes, in the thick of summer give me all the pure linen and I can ignore the wrinkles while I’m trying to make my way across the scorching parking lot to the grocery store.
But for those other sticky summer days? The ones where I need to ward off sweat without looking like I’m breaking a sweat? I turn to linen blends because they seem to wrinkle less.
A REVIEW OF LINEN FROM UNIVERSAL STANDARD
Coastal Linen Blazer
Coastal Linen Blazer Color: Sea Moss Size: 3XS Fabric: 55% Linen, 42% Rayon, 3% Elastane also wearing: Coastal Linen Pants | Tank | Sandals | Sunglasses | Earrings | Necklace*
This is my second Coastal Linen Blazer (you can see my first – in the Bleu Scolaire colorway – in action here) and I can already tell you I’m eyeing a third in Black. This oversized blazer is made from midweight linen and features soft shoulder pads and impeccable tailoring for a little structure. The low buttoning point and extended length are consistent with recent trends, and the functional buttons are a little more interesting than a typical black or tortoise button.
At 5’4″, I’m used to constantly cuffing the sleeves of my jackets to keep them out of the way, but for once, that’s not the case. In fact, I don’t think I would change a thing about the fit. With slightly narrow shoulders, I was able to size down one size without compromising fastening the buttons or the ability to layer sleeved garments underneath. The result is a jacket that reads as oversized yet hangs relatively close to the body.
Though the fabric lends itself to summer wear, I would say the blazer is heavier than summerweight. Since it’s lined in the front with polyester, it’s not the type of piece you would toss on to shield you from the sun while staying cool, like you would a thin linen shirt. I’m actually glad they decided to line the front for added opacity, but I wish they would have chosen a cooler fabric to do so. Lining it with cupro, silk, or another layer of this linen-rayon blend would have been a more comfortable choice.
This linen blazer feels both polished and laidback, and you can play up either vibe with the rest of your outfit. I feel so chic in it, whether I’m pairing it with the matching pants (more on those in a sec!), mini dresses, or denim alike. This blazer has quickly become a twice-weekly wear.
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Coastal Linen Pants
Coastal Linen Pants Color: Sea Moss Size: 2XS Fabric: 55% Linen, 42% Rayon, 3% Elastane also wearing: Coastal Linen Blazer | Tank | Sandals | Sunglasses | Earrings | Necklace*
Am I a suit girly now? The Coastal Linen Pants are just as beautiful with the matching blazer as they are with just about any other top. With a clean front, an elastic back, tailored seams, and a straight cut, they move easily from desk to drinks.
But there’s one design feature that I continue to be impressed by, and it’s the fly. What looks like a tedious four-button fly is actually a concealed zipper with a top button. I know. It’s pretty ingenious.
I bounce back and forth between a 3XS and 2XS in Universal Standard pants, and I’m glad I didn’t size down. These have just enough ease in the hips while still staying up at the waist thanks to the elastic. And can we talk about the length? Like the blazer sleeve, I wouldn’t change a thing. Except… after taking these photos I realized that the buttonhole is a little loose on my pair, causing it to look out of alignment (but it’s nothing a few quick stitches can’t fix right up!).
Like the blazer, I’m also eyeing these in other colors (namely black, or whatever other fun colors they may release in the future). I just plan on steering clear from the pair in white, both from a clumsy perspective and because I fear they’ll be sheer.
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Tropez Tied Linen Crop Top
Tropez Tied Linen Crop Top Color: Black Size: 4XS Fabric: 55% Linen, 42% Rayon, 3% Elastane also wearing: Juniper Linen Easy Pull-On Shorts | Sandals | Necklace* | Bracelet | Hoop Earrings
A tie-front crop top just screams “Summer” doesn’t it? Meet the Tropez Tied Linen Crop Top, a short-sleeved button-down that’s designed to be tied at the waist and is made from lightweight linen.
It’s such an easy throw-on-and-go piece to wear with the matching Juniper Linen Easy Pull-On Shorts or other high-rise bottoms, except… I’m not sure I love it. I have yet to meet an elastic banded top I fully endorse because they all tend to pop up at the bottom and balloon out in the back. This is a shame because I’m otherwise pretty happy with the fit in the chest and shoulders—even though I had to size way down to get here.
My other quibble is the fabric, which is so light and airy that it veers sheer. Even if you wouldn’t think that from these photos, I feel pretty uncomfortable wearing this top with a bra alone (because all I can see in the mirror is my bra) and the cut doesn’t lend itself to layering most tanks underneath. You can’t win them all I suppose…
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Juniper Linen Easy Pull-On Shorts
Juniper Linen Easy Pull-On Shorts Color: Black Size: 3XS Fabric: 55% Linen, 42% Rayon, 3% Elastane also wearing: Tropez Tied Linen Crop Top | Sandals | Necklace* | Bracelet | Hoop Earrings
As you have probably gathered, I’m clearly a fan of a matching set! The Juniper Linen Easy Pull-On Shorts are just one of Universal Standard’s current linen bottoms (you can also find joggers and pull-on pants on the website) that can be mixed and matched with their linen tops. They feature a full elastic waistband with two angled front pockets and two rear patch pockets.
To be honest, this ultra-casual short style doesn’t really feel like me. I’m learning that I appreciate a flat-front waistband because I don’t like the poofiness of a fully-elastic one. Combine that with the same slightly sheer fabric, and these are an indoor-only kind of short for me.
But you can still catch me in these often—if you happen to ring my doorbell unexpectedly. They’ve grown even softer with washing and wearing and have been great for summer lounging!
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Promenade Linen Jumpsuit
Promenade Linen Jumpsuit Color: Shoreline Sunset Print Size: 3XS Fabric: 55% Linen, 42% Rayon, 3% Elastane also wearing: Bag* | Sandals | Earrings
Is that *checks notes* Alyssa? In a pattern? In a bright pattern?
Your eyes do not deceive you: I am indeed wearing the Promenade Linen Jumpsuit in the boldest pattern, the Shoreline Sunset Print. This pull-on jumpsuit features wide straps, a smocked back, an optional waist tie, and ultra-wide legs.
I sized down to a 3XS based on a recommendation at a styling session, but there’s enough fabric that I think I might size down one more next time (that is if they ever restock in any of the other colors I’m eyeing!). With just enough length to puddle on the floor, I haven’t decided whether or not I’m going to hem this jumpsuit. If I do, it’ll be just the tiniest amount to keep the proportion.
A jumpsuit should be a pretty throw-on-and-go type of garment, but this one has some caveats. Allegedly this style is bra-friendly, but I would disagree. I find that my straps tend to creep out a bit, but even if they didn’t, they’d peek through the large metal circle anyway. When I wear my hair down, I wear a regular bra and simply try to ignore them poking out, but I would definitely wear a strapless bra if I planned to wear my hair up (and probably complain the whole time…).
As for the ultra-wide legs, I will say they make going to the bathroom a bit of a challenge. No one wants yucky pant hems from the bathroom floor, so I try to be mindful of my day’s itinerary before wearing this jumpsuit (it’s a no-go on flying days!).
Like the brand’s mix-and-match linen items, the linen used in this jumpsuit isn’t fully opaque. If I wasn’t wearing nude-to-me underwear, you’d definitely be able to see the outline through the fabric—and even still, if the light is behind me, it’s not too difficult to make out the outline of my legs through the material. Unless you’re really looking, the pattern helps obscure some of this, but I personally would not order this jumpsuit in white.
It’s not perfect, but it’s close, and it makes me want to try the new cupro version of this jumpsuit for added opacity. As always, if I do, I’ll be sure to share my thoughts with you!
*This item is no longer available and a similar option is linked
FINAL THOUGHTS ON UNIVERSAL STANDARD LINEN AND AN EXCLUSIVE DISCOUNT
While some brands are making an effort to offer linen in extended size ranges (a few that come to mind: Quince, Eloquii, Old Navy, and Chicos), I can’t think of a single other brand that has as broad of a range as Universal Standard. So while some of these pieces are not quite perfect, they’re well on their way to suiting much of the population.
Feel like one of these summery pieces might be right for you? You can save an extra 10% on your Universal Standard order – even sale items! – with code INFS-AMBWAYWARD.
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Questions for you
Are you team 100% linen or linen blend?
Does wrinkled linen bother you, or do you embrace the lived-in feel?
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- A Review of Universal Standard’s Sally Liquid Jersey Shirtdress and Dylan Luxe Twill Joggers
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- Sets Appeal: A Review of Almost Every Linen Top and Bottom from Quince
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