The Best of Bull City: The Essential Weekend Travel Guide for Durham, North Carolina

Sharing a weekend guide featuring the best of the best of Durham, North Carolina.

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I’m going to start this post with a sentence that might shock you: Raleigh-Durham is not a city.

It’s an airport.

An airport that serves two very different, distinct North Carolina cities: Raleigh and Durham.

Or Durham and Raleigh, if you prefer.

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Our visit was generously hosted by Discover Durham, but as always, all opinions expressed here are my own. This post contains affiliate links and I may receive a small commission if you make a purchase after clicking one of these links.

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Since moving to North Carolina in 2019, I’ve spent shamefully little time in Durham. Truth be told, I’ve only ever visited for the day, always leaving with a longer list of things to do than when I arrived.

So when the team at Discover Durham reached out to suggest spending a weekend in their city, well, great minds think alike.

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ABOUT DURHAM

Durham, North Carolina, is a city with a compelling past and a vibrant present. Durham grew into prosperity thanks to its tobacco roots, but it only fully blossomed because of its people. Dubbed the “City of Medicine,” Durham is home to over 300 outstanding medical facilities, as well as the Research Triangle Park (frequently shortened to RTP) – a primary source of the city’s modern-day technological innovation. Today, it is the fourth-largest city in the state and continues to grow year after year.

Beyond being named one of the best places to live in the country, Durham is just as much of a treat to visit. Visitors will find a thriving food culture, a diverse array of locally-owned businesses, and residents who foster a strong sense of community. One of Durham’s standout features is its downtown core, designed with a focus on pedestrian-friendly spaces and complemented by hotels that offer one-of-a-kind boutique experiences. With a wealth of activities to keep you busy, you might just call it the perfect weekend destination.

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Five things you may not know about Durham

1. The city of Durham might have been known as Prattsburg, were it not for a bit of greed on the part of William Pratt. When Mr. Pratt attempted to charge North Carolina Railroad officials an exorbitant price for a parcel of land, Bartlett L. Durham stepped in and donated the land needed (the railroad company responded by routing the tracks well around Pratt’s property as an act of defiance). Pettiness and greed can get you places, I suppose.
2. The Durham Bulls, the city’s Minor League Baseball team, inspired the film Bull Durham (which Sports Illustrated later declared is “the greatest Hollywood film ever made about baseball.”).
3. Durham was once home to the world’s largest tobacco company, the American Tobacco Company. Another tobacco company, the Blackwell Tobacco Company named its product, Genuine Bull Durham Smoking Tobacco, and thus the “Bull City” nickname was bestowed upon Durham.
4. Durham is one-third of the Research Triangle (along with Raleigh and Chapel Hill) known for its concentration of tech companies and research institutions.
5. The city strives to be an inclusive and equitable destination for all, which is mirrored in both its demographics and its citywide programming. Durham’s population has no racial majority, and the city is known for welcoming the LGBTQIA+ community with open arms.

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Now that you know a little more about Durham’s history, let’s explore the city today. Here’s how to spend a perfect weekend in Durham, North Carolina:

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THINGS TO DO IN DURHAM

Durham is swimming in local and cultural activities - here are a few for your visit:

Durham Farmers’ Market

Durham Farmers’ Market | 501 Foster St, Durham, NC 27701

I’m happy to say that the Durham Farmers’ Market carries on rain or shine, a fact I was unsure of until faced with a tropical storm in the forecast. It’s a good thing, too, as I would have been mighty disappointed to miss this market. Every Saturday morning, a variety of vendors gather to sell produce, flowers, prepared foods, and more – and best of all, this market is truly a local market. Everything for sale at the downtown site originated within a seventy-mile radius of Durham. How wonderful is that? (note: market hours change based on the season, find the current market schedule here).

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Nasher Museum of Art

Nasher Museum of Art | 2001 Campus Dr, Durham, NC 27705

Located on the Duke University campus, the Nasher Museum of Art is an approachable art museum consisting of three wings with rotating exhibits and an impressive permanent collection – all with free admission. Depending on your pace, the museum can be experienced in about an hour or so, and it makes for a perfect rainy day activity (ask me how I know!). As the museum is housed on campus, there is limited free parking available and you may incur a small hourly parking charge. Head here to learn more about museum parking.

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American Tobacco Campus

American Tobacco Campus | 300 Blackwell St #104, Durham, NC 27701

Once the headquarters for the American Tobacco Company, today the American Tobacco Campus is an excellent example of modern adaptive reuse – and it’s just a short, pleasant stroll from Durham’s city center. With attractions as diverse as the Durham Performing Arts Center and the Durham Bulls Athletic Park, you might find yourself here for a special event.

But even if it’s a sleepy Sunday morning, the complex is an enjoyable place to wander and practice your photography skills before grabbing a bite to eat at one of its many restaurants. Don’t miss a peek into the seemingly out-of-place cabin on the northwest side of the complex. The ATC is now the home of Burts Bees, and the Maine cabin belonging to the company’s founder, Burt Shavitz, has been carefully relocated here.

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Satellite Park

Satellite Park | 404 Gattis St, Durham, NC 27701

Heading back to the Duke campus you’ll find a a unique repurposed outdoor art exhibit at the Duke Arts Annex. Eight decommissioned satellites have been given a glow-up at Satellite Park, treating the dishes as a massive canvas for murals.

It’s a great spot to get up close to the artwork (don’t forget to walk around the back of each one!), and perhaps snap a few photos. Note: this public space is free and open during daylight hours, but it’s somewhat tucked out of sight. Navigate your GPS to the Duke Arts Annex and follow the downhill driveway to the parking lot.

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WHERE TO SHOP IN DURHAM

Even if shopping may not be high on your normal list of travel activities, I think you'll find so much value in Durham's locally-owned boutiques (not to mention things you can't find anywhere else!)

Bright Black

Bright Black | 2020 Chapel Hill Rd #24, Durham, NC 27707

Are souvenirs your thing? Look no further than a beautifully crafted candle from Bright Black, whose mission is to embrace and celebrate Black greatness. Embark on a scent journey in the showroom to experience fragrances inspired by the Black diaspora, music genres, and professional sports.

Choose your favorite scent; this seemingly simple act can be a fun bonding experience for you and your travel partners as you compare notes on particular fragrances and share how they make you feel. The high-quality wax has an astoundingly long burn time, meaning your Durham experience can continue long after you return home.

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Durham Vintage Collective

Durham Vintage Collective | 109 W Parrish St, Durham, NC 27701

Walking in the door at Durham Vintage Collective feels a bit like stepping into the family living room, as everything for sale was produced in the last half of the previous century. Funky vintage clothing hangs from racks around the shop, with a fun mix of home decor and furniture interspersed. As expected, prices are higher than the thrift store but not unreasonable for the quality and curated selection.

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Dolly’s Vintage

Dolly's Vintage | 213 W Main St, Durham, NC 27701

Perhaps it was the timing of my visit that made me think that Dolly’s Vintage would be an excellent place to shop for a Halloween costume, but with such a fun and quirky selection of perfectly preserved pieces from past decades, can you blame me? In addition to gorgeous displays of vintage clothing, Dolly’s carries a great selection of kitschy goods and gifts.

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Freeman’s Creative

Freeman's Creative | 2020 Chapel Hill Rd #25, Durham, NC 27707

With sewing notions, racks of fluffy yarn, and plenty of paper craft supplies, Freeman’s Creative is a crafter’s dream. But even if you are a little less than craft-confident, there’s probably something for you, too. The shop offers plenty of accessible kits and crafts for beginners, and there’s a helpful and knowledgeable staff to help you get started on your first project.

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Scrap Thrift + The Scrap Exchange

Scrap Thrift | 2020 Chapel Hill Rd #31, Durham, NC 27707
The Scrap Exchange | 2050 Chapel Hill Rd, Durham, NC 27707

Nestled into the Lakewood Shopping Center are sister businesses Scrap Thrift and The Scrap Exchange – and you’ll want to make time for a treasure hunt at each! Scrap Thrift feels very much like your typical clothing and home goods thrift store, with gems waiting to be unearthed from racks of discarded items at a steal of a price (plus a selection of used books and other media that could operate as its own separate entity, due to the sheer number of items).

But expect to be blown away by The Scrap Exchange. Part artist market, part secondhand craft supplies, this shop is such a brilliant and sustainable idea (if you pick up something cool here, I’d love to hear about it!).

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Vert & Vogue

Vert & Vogue | 353 W Main St, Durham, NC 27701

Perhaps the most stylish shop in all of Durham, Vert & Vogue offers a carefully selected stock of indie designer clothing, shoes, and accessories. It’s always worth a stop whenever you’re in the Bull City, though I confess I stuck to lèche-vitrine (window shopping) for the sake of my annual travel budget.

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Rumors Durham

Rumors Durham | 2501 University Dr #3, Durham, NC 27707

Like their Chapel Hill location, Rumors Durham is a secondhand shop for all genders, with clothes from all decades. I struck out during our shopping adventure, but Michael lucked out and took home a plush cashmere sweater for only $1 (a dollar, people!).

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MODE Consignment Boutique

MODE Consignment Boutique | 1000 W Main St #1-B, Durham, NC 27701

For the finer things on a budget, MODE Consignment Boutique stocks a great selection of secondhand designer and premium-label goods in posh surrounds. It’s the perfect place to stop and shop while you explore Brightleaf Square.

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DURHAM’S BEST FOOD + DRINK

Durham Food Hall

Durham Food Hall | 530 Foster St Suite 1, Durham, NC 27701

I often tout that food halls are a great way for visitors to sample local cuisine on a time crunch, but Durham Food Hall is a must-visit no matter the length of your stay. And you can visit just about any time of day, with early-morning options like Everything Bagels and Liturgy Beverage Company, mid-day favorites like Ex-Voto and Mango Indian Grill, and evening libations from The Auctioneer Bar. Michael and I curated a feast of goodness and have zero regrets (but remain immensely grateful for the minifridge in our hotel room).

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M Sushi

M Sushi | 311 Holland St, Durham, NC 27701

Entering M Sushi feels a little like you’re in on a secret, even though this basement sushi joint in an alleyway has been a favorite among Durhamites for years. With top-quality fish flown in daily, M Sushi is by far the best I’ve had in my time living in North Carolina.

To experience the best-of-the-best without breaking the bank, consider ordering the Lite Omakase, which includes a miso soup, a selection of sashimi, crudo, nigiri sushi, poke bowl, and tamago – with the specifics left up to the chef (another option is to visit at lunch – one of my favorite tips for value-conscious travelers!). Reservations essential.

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Nikos

Nikos | 905 W Main St Unit 21B, Durham, NC 27701

New to Durham’s restaurant scene is Nikos, a Greek restaurant in Durham’s Brightleaf Square. The restaurant’s philosophy is philoxenia, which if you’re a little rusty on your Greek translates to “friend of the stranger.” Sharing is an integral part of the dining experience at Nikos, and the restaurant offers a range of dishes in different sizes to suit your party.

I regret not having more strangers to dine with as there wasn’t a dish on the menu that I wouldn’t try, but I made my very best efforts to order as many items as possible. One can’t-miss item is the Flaming Saganaki, a cast iron dish of bubbly cheese that’s served on fire (accompanied by cries of “Opa!”). Watch your eyebrows!

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BB’s Crispy Chicken

BB's Crispy Chicken | now in Cary at 1147 Parkside Main St, Cary, NC 27519

For a quick bite on a budget for the whole family, head to BB’s Crispy Chicken. This personality-filled spot in the UHill Shopping Center [edit: the restaurant is now located in nearby Cary] offers a delicious crispy sandwich you can feel good about ordering. The restaurant’s fried chicken recipe is made from high-quality ingredients and took two years to perfect, and the result is a crispy shell that shatters delightfully with each bite. Try it with one of the restaurant’s thirteen (!) sauce options, and wash it down with a made-to-order milkshake.

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Lula and Sadie’s

Lula and Sadie’s | 2022 Chapel Hill Rd, Durham, NC 27707

Lula and Sadie’s offers a modern take on classic Southern dining, with a focus on sourcing local ingredients. Brunch here is quite the affair, and the menu is not for the faint of heart or appetite. “Decadent” is probably the best way to describe the offerings, which include cinnamon rolls stuffed with bacon and pecans, chicken and red velvet waffles, and a hearty breakfast poutine (with pimento cheese curds, no less).

Stuck on what to order? “The Bull” is Lula and Sadie’s brunch sampler, accompanied by your morning libation of choice. The items on the sampler rotate each weekend, but I found the quantities to be more than sufficient for two people – especially when you start with a pair of the to-die-for Bacon – Pecan Cinnamon Rolls.

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PRESS Coffee Crêpes Cocktails

PRESS Coffee Crêpes Cocktails | 359 Blackwell St, Durham, NC 27701

Judging by the hourlong wait and families milling about on the sidewalk out front, PRESS Coffee Crêpes Cocktails is the place to be on a Sunday morning in Durham. Once inside, it’s easy to see why – in addition to the beautiful plates emerging from the kitchen, the light and airy dining room makes for a delightful brunch atmosphere.

Somewhat pressed for time (sorry, I couldn’t help myself), I quickly discovered you can waltz right in and place an order to-go and enjoy it on one of the tables beyond the patio. For first-timers, crêpes are the way to go, and ours was so hearty we could share it. Top it off with a cup of coffee from locally roasted Counter Culture Coffee, and you’ve just begun the perfect Sunday.

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Picnic

Picnic | 1647 Cole Mill Rd, Durham, NC 27705

For those unfamiliar with North Carolina barbecue, any time you see simply “barbecue” under an entrees header, that refers to pulled or chopped pork. Picnic serves up Eastern-style whole hog barbecue with friendly service in relaxed digs (though I live in the Piedmont, I pledge allegiance to Eastern-style barbecue – and it is a treat not to have to drive four hours for the good stuff!).

For good measure, we ordered the Brisket and Barbecue Combo, and while the brisket was quite good, the pork is truly the star (and the sides are very happy in their supporting role). Mac and cheese is somewhat of a controversial barbecue side, but Picnic’s is ready to help change minds.

And in an attempt to solve the great debate of Lexington-style vs. Eastern-style barbecue, a bottle of Picnic’s Pig Whistle BBQ Sauce is available at each table and for sale at the register. This sauce combines tomatoes and vinegar – the typical bases on each side of the state – for one great sauce that feels truly Carolinian.

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Cocoa Cinnamon + Little Waves Coffee Roasters

Cocoa Cinnamon + Little Waves Coffee Roasters | 2013 Chapel Hill Rd Suite A, Durham, NC 27707

I’ve heard that all of the locations of Cocoa Cinnamon are wonderful, but the Lakewood location (also home to the Little Waves Coffee Roasters arm of the business) takes the cake – or rather, the churro. Piped, fried, and coated in your choice of sugars fresh to order, these might just be the best churros outside of Mexico City. All that’s left to do is to choose your drinking chocolate or award-winning coffee.

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Durham Bars and Breweries

Bar Virgile | 105 S Mangum St Unit #1, Durham, NC 27701
Clouds Brewing Brightleaf Square | Brightleaf Square, 905 W Main St #22, Durham, NC 27701
The Slush | 321 W Main St, Durham, NC 27701

Thirsty? Durham offers plenty of libations to satisfy any boozy cravings. For an excellent cocktail, belly up to Bar Virgile. This chic bar shakes up a curated menu of classic and innovative cocktails without pretense, but bear in mind you may have to wait on a busy night (alas, BV does not accept reservations). It’ll be worth it, promise.

For the beer-minded, Clouds Brewing was originally founded as a “German inspired, American made” brewery in Raleigh in 2015, but there’s something for every kind of beer drinker at their Durham taproom (you can still say prost, though!). You know I’m a Hazy IPA gal, so predictably, a Forecast was in the forecast for me.

For a fun twist on drinks with friends, stop into The Slush for a frozen slush in a lounge atmosphere. If the thought of boozy frozen slushies brought queasy flashbacks to late nights in college, sadly, I know the feeling all too well. We’re not going to walk down that memory lane, but I can confidently reassure you that the frozen concoctions being served at The Slush are not the same sugary, syrupy hangover fuel found at dive bars. These actually taste like real fruit rather than gasoline (but you can pump up the sugar with free candy mix-ins if you’d like). Still apprehensive? Non-alcoholic versions are available as well.

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WHERE TO STAY IN DURHAM

A hotel with history reimagined for the present.

Unscripted Durham

Unscripted Durham | 202 Corcoran St, Durham, NC 27701

Unscripted Durham is a 74-room renewed midcentury boutique hotel in the heart of downtown Durham. Popular with visitors and locals alike, the stylish hotel lobby and pool deck fill in the evenings with people looking to get out and enjoy the atmosphere.

Despite being outfitted with all the modern amenities required by modern travelers, the rooms maintain their original motor court layout and reflect its vintage aesthetic. Find my full review of Unscripted Durham here.

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WITH MORE TIME IN DURHAM

Have more time to explore Durham? Lucky you! Here are a few items remaining to be experienced from my Durham bucket list.

Here are some places on my radar for my next visit to Durham:

More Things to Do in Durham

• Museum of Durham History | A museum to help add more context for your Durham visit
• Sarah P. Duke Gardens | 55 acres of specialized gardens on Duke University’s campus
• Eno River State Park | Hiking, paddling, fishing, and a famous suspension bridge
• Events | From Broadway shows at DPAC to CenterFest, the Durham calendar is always full

More Durham Food & Drink

• Boxcar Bar + Arcade | To complete the trifecta (see other visits to the locations in Raleigh and Greensboro)
• The Parlour | Handmade ice cream (need I say more?)
• M Restaurants | Other concepts from the team behind M Sushi include M Kokko, M Tempura, and M Pocha
• Alley Twenty Six | Award-winning craft cocktails
• Parker and Otis | Cafe fare and a cute gift shop
• Lawrence Barbecue | This is North Carolina, after all
• Goorsha | Incredible-looking Ethiopian food, ready for date night

As always, if you beat me to any of the above, please leave a comment and share your thoughts for future visitors (and, selfishly, for me!)!

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TRAVEL TIPS: DURHAM, NORTH CAROLINA

Some helpful, destination-specific tips for your visit.

Durham is located in the eastern portion of North Carolina’s Piedmont region and is easily reached by air from many domestic and several international destinations. After arriving at Raleigh-Durham International Airport, it’s only a twenty-minute car ride to the center of downtown (public transit involves a lengthy journey and transfers – I recommend traveling by car).

Whether you choose to rent a car or opt for rideshare services is really dealer’s choice. Many of the places in this guide are only a ten-minute walk from one another, but if you’re looking to head further afield after your weekend in Durham, a car would be immensely helpful.

Durham is also located along Amtrak’s Piedmont and Carolinian routes, so if you’re traveling from Charlotte or Washington, D.C., you might consider traveling by train (on a personal note, I’m thinking about doing this for my next Durham getaway!).

Traveling by train or foregoing the car certainly reduces parking fees, which are prevalent in downtown lots and at downtown hotels – however, parking in city lots is free on the weekends (unless there’s an event scheduled). Find the most up-to-date city parking information here.

One growing North Carolina trend that’s also present in Durham is the social district. Local legislation allows people 21+ to responsibly drink beer, wine, or cocktails purchased from participating businesses as they walk through The Bullpen, the state’s largest social district. As you might expect, there are a lot of rules in place – find the current district map and policies here.

How’s the weather?  Well, it’s pretty consistent with much of the Southeast: hot and humid summers, cool winters (with the occasional exciting snowfall), and blissful springs and autumns. No matter the time of year, pack an umbrella just in case.

Finally, I occasionally offer words of caution when traveling through the South, as it’s not always the most inclusive or welcoming region for non-white people or those in the LGBTQIA+ community. But Durham is a city that seems to really care about its people – and in return, its people take so much pride in their city (rightfully so!).

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FINAL THOUGHTS ON VISITING DURHAM

To quote Michael, a visit to Durham is, “A Durm good time.”

All (cringeworthy) puns aside, a visit to Durham is well worth your time. Ease of access, a plethora of activities, and some of the best restaurants in the state? I can’t think of a more perfect way to spend a weekend. Just don’t blame me if you start having thoughts of moving to the city by the time Sunday afternoon rolls around!

A special thank you to Discover Durham for making our weekend in Durham possible - and for all you do to support visitors and local businesses alike!

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Questions for you

Confession time: Did you know that Raleigh and Durham are two separate cities?

Have you ever visited a creative reuse store?

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