The Ultimate Guide to Exploring Ghent: Belgium’s Hidden Gem

Sharing your weekend travel guide for Ghent, Belgium.

“Where should I stay in Belgium?”

Michael and I were torn between staying in Bruges, Ghent, and Antwerp, and after doing some research, conducting a poll in Instagram stories, and chatting with Olivia from Alice + Whittles (now Thesus – thank you again!), we settled on Ghent – and I’m so happy we did. Yes, Bruges has its fairytale beauty, and Antwerp has its edgy, cool city vibe, but Ghent is a happy middle between the two.

Because it’s a university city, Ghent’s population skews young and the city remains active after dark. Outside of the sightseeing areas, we were often the only tourists around. The city has it all: a rich history, a picturesque square, museums, good food, and great beer – and it’s just a short train ride away from Bruges, Antwerp, and Brussels. Even if you’re planning on staying in another city (but please don’t) a visit to Ghent is worth your time. Here’s what else is worth your time:

GHENT SIGHTS + ATTRACTIONS

Gravensteen

Gravensteen | Sint-Veerleplein 11, 9000 Gent, Belgium

It wouldn’t be a trip to Europe without a visit to a castle, would it? Gravensteen is located right in the heart of Ghent, and no, you don’t have to worry – getting across the moat is pretty easy. The audio tour is probably the most epic and entertaining one we’ve ever heard, but getting through all of the sections of the guide would probably take hours. Our recommendation? Just listen to the guide in rooms you’re particularly interested in.

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Museum voor Schone Kunsten

Museum voor Schone Kunsten | Fernand Scribedreef 1, 9000 Gent, Belgium

The Museum voor Schone Kunsten (or MSK) is located near the main train station as well as the local university. The area feels very vibrant, just like the art contained within the museum. What you’re probably here for, though, is the restoration of the Van Eyck altarpiece The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb, which is typically housed in St. Bavo’s Cathedral. Beyond that, the museum holds works from varying artists and periods, satisfying everyone in your bunch.

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Architecture

Stadshal | Poeljemarkt, 9000 Gent, Belgium
De Krook | Miriam Makebaplein 1, 9000 Gent, Belgium

More of a quick stop to peer at, the Stadshal city pavilion is a work of modern architecture used for concerts and other events in Ghent. Certainly striking, its presence is not without controversy. The recently-completed De Krook is worth a stop as well as it’s been named one of the ten most beautiful modern libraries in the world.

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S.M.A.K.

S.M.A.K. | Jan Hoetplein 1, 9000 Gent, Belgium

If you are one of those people who “get” modern art, this one’s for you. The S.M.A.K. is probably the most provocative modern art museum we’ve ever visited, and I’m not quite sure it’s for everyone (one of the works present during our visit was a room filled with televisions – all of the TV sets showed looping video of people scratching themselves. Suffice to say it’s not the thing for me). Thankfully it’s located near the MSK, allowing for a more traditional art experience.

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Graffiti Street

Graffiti Street | Werregarenstraat, 9000 Gent, Belgium

In an effort to reduce vandalism, Ghent allows graffiti artists to display their work down a particular alley near Ghent’s famous cathedrals. The works vary in size and quality and are always changing – and you never know what you’ll see!

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Sint Baafskathedraal (St. Bavo’s Cathedral)

Sint Baafskathedraal (St. Bavo's Cathedral) | Sint-Baafsplein, 9000 Gent, Belgium

Sint-Baafskathedraal is one of three large spires in the Ghent city skyline – and is most famous for housing the Van Eyck masterpiece The Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. As we’d seen much of the painting at the museum we opted to skip viewing it at its original home (there is a cost to enter that portion of the cathedral). The cathedral is strikingly beautiful – there’s still plenty to admire in the remainder of the church.

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Ghent Belfry

Ghent Belfry | Sint-Baafsplein, 9000 Gent, Belgium

Another one of Ghent’s three spires, the Ghent Belfry, stands tall overlooking the city and for a small fee, you can do the same. The Belfry in Ghent wasn’t our favorite during this trip, but it was probably the easiest to reach the top of. It’s not fully accessible – there are some stairs – however, a lift carries you most of the way to the top, so you can save your feet at least a little bit.

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Sint-Niklaaskerk

Sint-Niklaaskerk | Cataloniëstraat, 9000 Gent, Belgium

The final of Ghent’s three tall spires is Sint-Niklaaskerk (Saint Nicolas’ Church), and it too is worth a stop. In fact, all three of these structures are located in close proximity to one another and can be visited over the course of an hour or two if you’re rushed (but please, take more time if you can!). Check out the impressive organ while you’re there; there was a lesson going on during our visit. Can you imagine trying to learn to play in such a place?

GHENT FOOD + DRINK

De Frietketel

De Frietketel | Papegaaistraat 89, 9000 Gent, Belgium

De Frietketel won the title of Best Fries in Flanders, and judging by the line of university students outside, it is a title that’s well-deserved. Expecting a quick snack, we instead queued for about forty-five minutes before finally reaching frites-nirvana. A word of caution, these are not your American fry sizes. Oh, no – these are larger than that. Fries come in puntzak (a small cone), small, large, and extra-large, so we figured a large would be plenty to share between us. What we were handed was a bundle of piping hot potatoes about the size and weight of an infant (with mayonnaise, of course!). The fries are just as good as they say, so you can probably imagine our disappointment at having to toss what we couldn’t finish.

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De Dulle Griet

De Dulle Griet | Vrijdagmarkt 50, 9000 Gent, Belgium

The beer menu at De Dulle Griet is overwhelming, just so you know. You’ll receive a book of over 500 beers, and you probably won’t know which one to get. You may giggle and get the Max beer – served in a tall glass, for which you must pay a temporary deposit of one of the shoes on your feet – or you may just close your eyes and point to something and drink whatever you end up with. But if I can make a suggestion, go for the Westvleteren 12, a notoriously difficult-to-obtain beer. It’s pricey, yes, but this might be your only shot at enjoying one (short of ordering off eBay at an even higher price or driving to the abbey yourself).

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t’ Oud Clooster

t' Oud Clooster | Zwartezustersstraat 5, 9000 Gent, Belgium

t’ Oud Clooster is a lovely, intimate, and fun spot just shy of the bustling touristy area. It’s also open a tad later than some of the other restaurants, which is how we ended up there in the first place. With a small and cheeky menu, everything is cooked well (and the menu is available for purchase to bring home if you’d like). If we were locals, we’d probably frequent this place with friends and family – just as the other diners were.

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Alix – Table & Jardin des Amis

Alix - Table & Jardin des Amis | Kortrijksesteenweg 206, 9000 Gent, Belgium

We’d hit that panic point where we’d nearly missed our window for lunch, and just barely stumbled upon Alix – Table & Jardin des Amis. At lunch, Alix serves up farm-to-table small plates in the dining room and out in the garden from their open kitchen (update: lunch and dinner are now for private groups only). Staff were relaxed and friendly – as if there was no other place they’d rather be.

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VOS Coffee & Tea

VOS Coffee & Tea | Now Closed

VOS Coffee & Tea (now closed) is a coffee oasis in its neighborhood – which is utterly surprising since its neighborhood is the university. Pop by for a quick jolt of caffeine, or linger for a while over your laptop like many students.

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Balls & Glory

Balls & Glory | Jakobijnenstraat 6, 9000 Gent, Belgium

There are a few Balls & Glory shops in Belgium, so even if you miss the one in Ghent you can catch them in Brussels, Leuven, or Antwerp. Balls & Glory sells baked and breaded meatballs (with a vegetarian option, too) served on Stoemp (potatoes) or a salad. After trying both, go for the stoemp, no matter how unhealthy it feels.

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‘t Einde der Beschaving

't Einde der Beschaving | Sint-Veerleplein 8, 9000 Gent, Belgium

Bars and pubs near tourist sites aren’t typically very good – they don’t have to be, because they don’t rely on the business of repeat customers. We happened upon ‘t Einde der Beschaving while walking back to our Airbnb. There were several bars and restaurants open at that hour, with patrons spilling out onto the sidewalks. We gave each a quick listen before making our decision, and ‘t Einde der Beschaving was the only spot where we heard solely Dutch spoken. If the evening is nice, enjoy a Trappist ale on the patio (which is also where we found the bartender) overlooking the castle.

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Cafe Labath

Cafe Labath | Oude Houtlei 1, 9000 Gent, Belgium

If you can find a corner to tuck into, Cafe Labath is a great spot to catch up with friends or hang out for a bit over coffee. And if you’re missing ridiculously over-sugared coffee drinks, the staff at Cafe Labath have got your back.

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Mayana Chocoladebar

Mayana Chocoladebar | Sint-Pietersnieuwstraat 208, 9000 Gent, Belgium

If you’re cold and can’t handle another coffee and tea, Mayana Chocoladebar makes a mean hot chocolate. Though, they have those too, both made with chocolate and cacao, if that’s what you’re looking for. And while I can’t vouch for their desserts, they all sound incredible.

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Castor en Pollux

Castor en Pollux | Now Closed

There’s always pressure to have a lovely final meal in a city, and what a perfect last dinner we had at Castor en Pollux (now closed). Reservations are essential, and unfortunately, we only discovered this restaurant two hours before dinner. On our first call to the restaurant, we were told there were no more available tables for the evening. On our second call (on my insistence!) ten minutes later, a spot had magically appeared. The place is small and bustling and was primarily filled with couples and larger girlfriend outings, clearly intending to stay until closing time. The menu is small and written chalkboard-style, and always changing. There are plenty of options for vegetarians and meat-eaters alike.

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Soup’r

Soup'r | Sint-Niklaasstraat 9, 9000 Gent, Belgium

Soup restaurants are big in Ghent. It’s something we’ve never encountered before, and I’m not sure why as the place we visited was, well, Soup’r. (Sorry, I couldn’t help it). The soup menu rotates frequently, and there are a few sandwiches on offer in addition to the soups. Ordering is a bit confusing and not well-explained when you arrive, but the restaurant is counter-service: you order and pay at the register and linger and search for a table. Once you find one, alert the staff, and they will bring your order to you. We didn’t have to wait too long for a table, but beware that other diners may be circling like hawks.

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Barbiet

Barbiet | Now Closed

So, Barbiet (now closed) is an entirely vegetarian restaurant, which I didn’t realize when I brought my carnivore boyfriend in to eat breakfast. Thus, we were both so surprised to discover how much he enjoyed his meal. Sweet or savory is up to you – everything is so, so good and incredibly fresh.

SHOPPING IN GHENT

A’pril

A'pril | Burgstraat 27, 9000 Gent, Belgium

Need to complete your souvenir shopping all in one place? Quirky A’pril might be your best bet. While there were fewer Belgian items that I’d prefer, the shop houses enough things that your friends and family might find useful or fascinating – no matter their age or interests.

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Mieke

Mieke | Burgstraat 87, 9000 Gent, Belgium

Mieke is one of three ethical fashion stores we happened upon during this trip to Europe and one of the few places I purchased something to bring back home (that would be this pendant). A friendly layout is inviting for shoppers, and there is comfort to be found in shopping slowly. Staff offer no pressure to purchase, but make themselves readily available to answer any questions.

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Ampersand

Ampersand | Serpentstraat 5, 9000 Gent, Belgium

Similar in aesthetic to Mieke, Ampersand offers women’s clothing and accessories, mostly in a minimal style. I was most drawn to their accessories, particularly the jewelry, as they were a bit unlike anything I’d seen before.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO: GHENT

Ghent is easily reached by train from Brussels, which means it can also be easily reached by Paris, Amsterdam, Cologne, or London. You can also arrive direct from Antwerp or Bruges, which makes it an ideal home base for travel within Flanders. Once you arrive, purchase a Day Pass from De Lijn, the public transit system (they come in 1-, 3-, or 5-day options; edit: the 3- and 5-day options are no longer available, though 10-ride or 50-ride passes may now be purchased) at the Lijnwinkel outside of Gent-Sint-Pieters. Ghent is very walkable, but when you need to travel clear across town the trams are your best bet. They run quite frequently, though not terribly late at night. Locals seem to skip validating their cards, but please be a good tourist and remember to check in each time you use public transit.

You may notice that the city is spelled “Ghent,” “Gent,” or “Gand” depending on who is writing it. Ghent is located squarely in Flanders, and Flemish (or Dutch) is the language you’ll hear most often in the city. It’s not an easy language to pick up, but do be sure to attempt a few greetings and phrases – chances are someone will relieve you and switch to English.

Safety seems to be a growing concern in Ghent even for locals, however, we encountered no issues during our stay in the city. Staying within the core of the city and away from the outskirts and the university area at night made all the difference. If you’re unsure about an area’s safety, check in with your Airbnb host or hotel desk manager.

One surprising thing we encountered for the first time in our European travels, is the lack of availability of tap water at restaurants. In fact, we were told once that “it is illegal to serve tap water.” We can’t find anything online supporting that fact, but essentially businesses are not required by law to serve you water (as in, say, France). We often found tap water in pitchers at coffee shops, but when dining at restaurants, expect to pay an extra €2-3 per person for bottled water. Better yet, order a glass of wine or beer for the same price and stay hydrated throughout the day (the best prices we found for bottled water were at Kruidvat).

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Heading to Ghent soon? What are you most looking forward to seeing or doing?

Have any questions? Don’t hesitate to ask in the comments!

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The Ultimate Travel Guide for Ghent, Belgium